The hill that towers over Naples is the largely residential Vomero. From the balcony belvedere of the Museo di San Martino, a rich spread of southern Italian amplitude fills the eye: hillsides dripping with luxuriant greenery interspersed with villainously ugly apartment houses, streets short and narrow (leading to an unspeakable as well as unsolvable traffic problem), countless church spires and domes, and far below, the reason it all works, the intensely blue Bay of Naples.
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