Fodor's Expert Review Il Don Giovanni

Just down the street from Castello Estense, this warm and inviting restaurant consists of a handful of tables inside a 17th-century palace. Chef Pier Luigi Di Diego pays strict attention to what's seasonal. Here tortellini are stuffed with guinea fowl and sauced with zabaione (custard), Parmesan, and prosciutto croccante (fried prosciutto). Equally inventive is the delicate tegame di pernice rossa ai frutti di bosco (partridge in a fruit sauce), which delights the palate. Next door, the same proprietors run the less expensive but more crowded La Borsa. The trendy wine bar has excellent cured meats, cheeses, lovely primi and secondi, and a fantastic by-the-glass wine list.

The wine bar is open for lunch and dinner, the restaurant for dinner only.