Fodor's Expert Review Aldina

On the second floor of a building across from the covered market, steps from the Piazza Grande, this simple, typical trattoria is in the very nerve center of the city. Here you'll find exemplary preparations of the region's crown jewels: tortellini in brodo, tagliatelle al ragù, and roasted meats. Wash it down with Lambrusco, as locals have for centuries, and save room for the zuppa inglese (layered sponge cake with custard), which is terrific. The kitchen also puts a contemporary twist on classic dishes. It's highly popular, so even arriving early at lunchtime you'll probably have to wait in line (they don't accept reservations at lunch); or, book a table for Friday or Saturday night.