The Southwest Restaurants

The Southwest can almost be described as one big culinary hot spot. Kenmare, Dingle, and Killarney all have a high density of restaurants and gastropubs serving locally raised meat, artisanal cheeses, and local seafood. Kerry mountain lamb has a unique flavor imparted by the wild herbs and grasses that those sheep you see on every hillside are busy munching. Adare also has an array of tempting restaurants: choose between the low-ceilinged charm of the tiny rooms in the thatched-cottage restaurant, the Wild Geese, and the genuine old-world hospitality at the blissfully comfortable Dunraven Arms, an old coaching inn still with some of its original antiques, which is now one of Ireland's leading hotels.

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  • 1. Chart House

    $$$

    Host Jim McCarthy is often found in the early evening leaning over the red half door of this low, cabinlike stone building. The atmosphere is pleasantly informal (nautical artifacts complement the rusty-red walls and matching tablecloths), but both food and service are polished and professional. Top choices include pan-roasted monkfish with chana masala, toasted almonds, mango and red onion salsa or rack of Kerry mountain lamb. Finish the meal with a selection of Irish cheeses, served with a glass of port, or choose from a range of homemade desserts.

    The Mall, Dingle, Co. Kerry, Ireland
    066-915–2255

    Known For

    • Warm, attentive staff and atmosphere
    • Annascaul black pudding
    • Perfect spot for a romantic dinner

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Jan. 2–mid-Feb. and Mon.--Wed., Dec.--Apr. (call to confirm). No lunch
  • 2. Out of the Blue

    $$$

    Every fishing port should have a simple waterfront bistro like this one, serving the best seafood (the owner won't open up if there's no fresh-caught seafood available—which is almost never). Lobster, scallops, and crayfish are specialties, but also expect turbot, black sole, plaice, brill, monkfish, and even the humble pollack on the daily blackboard menu of this unpretentious shack. There's a short but well-chosen wine list, and basic dessert selection.

    The Pier, Dingle, Co. Kerry, Ireland
    066-915–0811

    Known For

    • No chips or deep-fried seafood
    • Tasty chowder
    • The bargain "Fish Deal" set menu

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed mid-Nov.–mid-Mar. No lunch Mon.–Sat., Reservations essential
  • 3. Ashe's

    $$$

    This pub has been sitting here since it opened in 1849 as a drapery with a liquor license, and its history over the years has included its location as the unofficial base for the cast of Ryan's Daughter, which filmed in the town in 1968. In fact, it was for this crew that Ashe's first started serving food, and while the bar has expanded to accommodate more visitors with two additional cozy, no-frills rooms, the fare served on the plain wooden tables remains the freshest seafood, cooked to order, and a small selection of meat and vegetarian dishes---all hearty and good. Reservations are advised.

    6 Main St., Dingle, Co. Kerry, Ireland
    066-915--0989

    Known For

    • Good-value early menu from 5:30--6:30 (booking advised)
    • Blasket Island lobster, steamed with lemon or garlic butter
    • Glenbeigh mussels in Thai-style broth

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Dec. 1--14 and Jan. 6--31
  • 4. Murphy's Ice Cream

    $

    One of Ireland's more unusual culinary success stories, Murphy's has won international awards for its delightfully creamy ice cream, including flavors like Dingle sea salt and Irish brown bread. Grab a scoop or two at this flagship parlor.

    Strand St., Dingle, Co. Kerry, Ireland
    066-915–2644

    Known For

    • Tasty Aztec hot chocolate
    • You can sample flavors before you buy
    • Unexpected flavors such as Irish gin, or fennel
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