Fodor's Expert Review Clonmacnoise

Thanks to its location, this legendary monastery survived almost everything thrown at it, including raids by feuding Irish tribes, Vikings, and Normans. But when a savage English garrison arrived from Athlone in 1552, they ruthlessly ransacked and reduced the site to ruin---one account that "not a bell, large or small, an image or an altar, a book or a gem, or even a glass in a window, was left which was not carried away." A hundred years later more English tribes arrived under Cromwell to cannon-ball the infrastructure. Still, with a little imagination, you can picture life here in medieval times, when the nobles of Europe sent their sons to be educated by the local monks. The monastery was founded on an esker (natural gravel ridge) overlooking the Shannon and a marshy area known as the Callows, a distinctive landscape of shallow waters and grassy meadow land on the river's floodplains, which overflows heavily during wet winters. It was, geographically, the crossroads of Ireland in the very center of the country and The Shannon River---so logistically and strategically, very important.  

Numerous buildings and ruins remain. The small cathedral dates as far back as the 10th century but has additions from the 15th century. It was the burial place of kings of Connaught and of Tara, and of Rory O'Conor, the last High King of Ireland, who was buried here in 1198. The two Round Towers include O'Rourke's Tower, which was struck by lightning and subsequently rebuilt in the 12th century. There are eight smaller churches, the littlest of which is thought to be the burial place of St. Ciaran.

The Nun's Church's chancel arch and doorway is a fine example of Romanesque architecture.

Set in a field on its own, a 10-minute walk from the main site, this serene church is the quietest place to experience some peace. The High Crosses have been moved into the visitor center to protect them from the elements (copies stand in their original places); the best preserved of these is the Cross of the Scriptures, also known as Flann's Cross. Some of the treasures and manuscripts originating from Clonmacnoise are now housed in Dublin, most at the National Museum. A 20-minute audiovisual presentation tells the history of the settlement in English, German, Italian, and French.

Clonmacnoise has always been a prestigious burial place. Among the ancient stones are many other graves dating from the 17th to the mid-20th century. The whole place is time-burnished, though in midsummer it can be difficult to avoid the throngs of tourists. To help control the visitor flow the center requests tourists to book their time slot online and if possible choose a quieter period such as early morning or late afternoon for their visit. There are 30-minute tours every hour during the summer season. The Shop at Clonmacnoise sells books, pottery, crafts, tweeds, and perfumes, and stocks tourist information.