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County Cork, home of the famous Slow Food Ireland movement, has become Ireland's top foodie destination. The mecca: Ballymaloe House, where Myrtle Allen pioneered New Irish cuisine and her daughter-in-law, the celebrated cookery author Darina Allen, learned her trade. Adventurous, well-traveled chefs throughout County Cork make
County Cork, home of the famous Slow Food Ireland movement, has become Ireland's top foodie destination. The mecca: Ballymaloe House, where Myrtle Allen pioneered New Irish cuisine and her daughter-in-law, the celebrated cookery author Darina Allen, learned her trade. A
County Cork, home of the famous Slow Food Ireland movement, has become Ireland's top foodie destination. The mecca: Ball
County Cork, home of the famous Slow Food Ireland movement, has become Ireland's top foodie destination. The mecca: Ballymaloe House, where Myrtle Allen pioneered New Irish cuisine and her daughter-in-law, the celebrated cookery author Darina Allen, learned her trade. Adventurous, well-traveled chefs throughout County Cork make the most of the first-rate local specialties: succulent beef and lamb, game in the winter, fresh seafood, and farmhouse cheeses. The best restaurants are not all in towns: even tiny villages might boast a gastropub.
Prosecco on tap sets the tone for fun at this wine bar and restaurant in the heart of Kinsale. There's a bar in the funky front parlor, along with some tables beside its street windows, supplemented by a more private back room. The eight-course tasting menu has a bouquet of carefully chosen indigenous produce: pigeon, rabbit, seaweed-infused potato, cured mackerel with ginger pickle, and sweet fruit with homemade sorbet---all offered with an imaginative take on traditional recipes.
Originally a café in a fish shop, this place has moved up in the world, now located in a sumptuous two-story former art gallery in the town park. TV chef Martin Shanahan, who trained in San Francisco, brings California pizzazz to his dishes. There is an unrivaled selection of seafood available here. Stylish young staffers seem thrilled to be part of the show. Lunch is the big event, although service does continue until 9 pm (except for most of January).
A must stop for Kinsale's more carnivorous visitors, but while locally sourced meat (directly from the owner's farm) is center stage on the Finn family's menu, there's a good offering of fresh catch, too. Talented owner--chef John Finn runs the restaurant with his wife, Julie---but "Bertha" (an imported charcoal-burning oven) is second in command. The front room is quiet and luxurious, with white table linens, Villeroy & Boch platters, and extra-large wineglasses for the outstanding wine list. Another room is used for small groups and private parties.
One of Ireland's original bar--restaurants, this is a Kinsale institution that serves local steak, lamb, duck, and fresh seafood. Choose from the inexpensive daily specials in the busy bar, or have a more leisurely meal among the mahogany tables, dark red decor, and oil lamps of the somewhat baronial restaurant. Classic homemade desserts (profiteroles, crème brûlée) are substantial and the Irish coffee is renowned.
Polished tables, a large stone chimney, and bay windows are the cornerstone of this contemporary space behind this double-fronted town house. At dinner, owner-chef Olivier Queva's classical French background is evident in his treatment of the daily catch directly from the pier, including fresh grilled lobster in the summer, and clever ways with unusual cuts of meat. In winter, the catch of the day is replaced by game: quail, pheasant, wild duck, or venison. The wine list is long and includes a good selection of French and new-world wines to complement serious and well-judged cuisine.
A small 18th-century coach house on a backstreet was an unlikely candidate to become the hottest place in a town famed for sophisticated eateries, but that's what happened here, and the uncluttered, minimalist premises and cobbled courtyard are buzzing with life. Reserve and your name is chalked on the wall beside your table, but the tall squeaky bar stools are just as popular. Simple hot dishes of the day might include scallop risotto or a hearty lamb tagine, but most people order the house specials—local charcuterie, farmhouse cheeses, Gubeen chorizo, smoked salmon, mixed antipasto—served on slates or wooden platters. End your locavore feast with locally roasted coffee and Koko chocolates.
Kinsale has other pub--restaurants, but none with such an idyllic waterside location. In summer, bar food is served on the big stone quay right beside the ocean. The characterful interior has a large open fireplace and a maritime theme, with a quirky selection of furniture. A concise, seasonal menu is on offer---try hot Oysterhaven oysters with spring cabbage.
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