Where to Hear Traditional Irish Music

If you’re interested in “trad” music, the beat of a bodhrán or the tap of a shoe will likely lead you to Galway and County Clare’s great folk fleadhs (festivals) and pub seisiúns (sessions).

Doolin

The seaside village of Doolin hosts regular sessions in the pubs along the length of its short, ribbon layout. The best chance to catch a quality performance is at the Russell Festival Weekend (www.michorussellweekend.ie) at the end of February.

East Clare

East Clare takes its rich legacy of trad music seriously from Ennis to Killaloe, with some of the most powerful performances held in small rural villages. In Feakle check out Peppers (www.peppersoffeakle.com) or Short's Bar, which holds the title of the longest unbroken Thursday musical performance in Ireland: they haven't missed a beat in more than 45 years. The Feakle Festival (www.feaklefestival.ie) has five unbroken days of trad music on the Wednesday that follows the first weekend in August.

Ennis

During the last week in May, the pleasant country town of Ennis hosts the Fleadh Nua (www.fleadhnua.com), a massive eight-day-long celebration of dancing and song, with concerts, workshops, and competitions. Many of the events are open-air and free, and there is a great festive buzz. Ennis is home to a growing cadre of musicians: the Custys, Siobhán and Tommy Peoples, flute player Kevin Crawford, and accordion whiz kid Murty Ryan. Check out Knox’s Pub (Abbey St. 065/682–9264) and Cruise’s Bar (Abbey St. 065/684–1800) for lively evening sessions.

Miltown Malbay

Held during the first week in July, the Willie Clancy Summer School (www.scoilsamhraidhwillieclancy.com) is Ireland’s biggest traditional music summer school. Classes, lectures, and recitals attract around 1,500 students from 42 countries to this tiny village on the west coast of Clare near Spanish Point. Set dancing is a big draw here, and a surefire way to make friends.