The Vasilikos Peninsula and Laganas

The area south of the main town bears witness to two very different sides of the island. The first is the gloriously lush, hilly peninsula that tumbles into the Ionian Sea. It's a surprisingly rural escape, speckled with countryside tavernas, pottery studios, local cafés, and farms. Around its ragged edges are some of the finest beaches on Zakynthos, defended by thick jungly fringes. Most visitors make straight for these and stay there, leaving the quiet villages and grassy trails to the lucky few.

Big resorts have yet to fully invade the Vasilikos Peninsuaa, and while it's far from untouched, it still feels like an escape. Much of the area's southern shores, stretching west over to Laganas, are part of the National Marine Park, which protects, among other things, the visiting loggerhead turtles that arrive on the island to breed in summer. Eco-conscious turtle cruises are a fantastic reward.

West of the peninsula, Laganas sprawls the southern coast like a sweaty teen with a hangover. Its beach and bar strip are an acquired taste, and where Europe's young men and women (mostly Brits) let loose their inner monster, fueled by cheap shots and the sea air. Neighboring Kalamaki offers a far more relaxing atmosphere, with some nice bars and a smattering of the island's better restaurants. To the far west lies the rugged coast of Keri, a beautiful stretch of coastline usually seen from the deck of a boat, with seabound trips from Agios Sostis and Laganas typically stopping at its majestic caves for snorkeling.

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