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Traditional Thracian and Macedonian cooks adapt to the seasons: in winter, rich game such as boar and venison is served; in summer, there are mussels and other seafood from the Aegean, as well as fruits and vegetables from the fertile plains. The relatively cooler climate here is reflected in rich chicken soups, roast chicken, s
Traditional Thracian and Macedonian cooks adapt to the seasons: in winter, rich game such as boar and venison is served; in summer, there are mussels and other seafood from the Aegean, as well as fruits and vegetables from the fertile plains. The relatively cooler clima
Traditional Thracian and Macedonian cooks adapt to the seasons: in winter, rich game such as boar and venison is served;
Traditional Thracian and Macedonian cooks adapt to the seasons: in winter, rich game such as boar and venison is served; in summer, there are mussels and other seafood from the Aegean, as well as fruits and vegetables from the fertile plains. The relatively cooler climate here is reflected in rich chicken soups, roast chicken, stuffed vegetables, and stewed lamb and pork.
Small plates (mezedes) are a fundamental part of the Thessaloniki dining experience. Specialties include medhia (mussels), which come from farms outside the bay and are served in styles that include saganaki (sauted in a pan with tomatoes, peppers, and feta) and achnista (steamed in broth with herbs). Also look for soutzoukakia (Anatolian-style meatballs in tomato sauce, seasoned with cumin). Peinerli (an open-faced boat of bread filled with cheese and ham) is a Black Sea specialty brought here by the Pontii, Greeks who emigrated from that area.
Meals are complemented by generous amounts of wine, ouzo, and tsipouro, the local version of grappa. Try the excellent barrel or bottled local wines, especially reds under labels such as Naoussa or Porto Carras or a little bottle of Malamatina retsina, considered the best bottled version in Greece. Throughout the city, little shops and cellars specialize in a Macedonian treat called a submarine (or ipovrihio), a spoonful of sweets such as visino (black) cherries in syrup, dipped in a glass of ice water. As for dinnertime, you can arrive around 8, earlier than most Greeks like to eat dinner (many places do not open before then)—but it's much more fun to come at 9 or 10 and mix with the locals.
One of the better and most creative seafood restaurants in Thessaloniki offers a menu that maintains the delicate flavors of its ingredients but also manages to add a modern twist. For instance, the marinated sea bass tartare, seasoned with fleur de sel, lemon, and olive oil, is then covered with a sprinkling of roe, bringing to mind a wave gently breaking against your tongue. The only thing better than the delightfully light scallops in saffron sauce with caviar and mushrooms may be the restaurant's signature dish, mithopilafo (mussels with rice), an old favorite. As for the desserts, try its take on halva, with loukoumi (Turkish delight) ice cream, toasted pine nuts, and marinated raisins or the sumptious toasted almond millefeuille. It's a perfect way to end one of the memorable meals here. The attractive dining room is breezily decorated in light blue and gray hues, with exposed chrome accents and cream-color wood tables and chairs.
Kalapothaki 8–10, Thessaloniki, Central Macedonia, 54624, Greece
A successful cooperative venture that has been delighting locals with their delicious seafood and veggie innovations for a few years now. Apart from the regular table seating there is a stainless steel bar in front of the open kitchen where you can watch the chefs strut their stuff up close as you chow down. Every tantalizing dish is well thought out and is interestingly presented. Why not start with the cheeses, served with pickled fern and nettle, a myrtle jam and a sprinkling haroupi crumbs? Moving on, the black bean cassoulet with smoked swordfish and cod roe or the pan-fried crayfish finished with a garlic goat butter are outstanding. The house wine is fine but the drink of choice is raki.
Christopoulou 12, Thessaloniki, Central Macedonia, 54635, Greece
Want sublime seafood pasta or risotto? Head to a place like this one, where the owner is a local fisherman and everything served is the catch of the day. Here the family cooks traditional village recipes and Macedonian specialties, such as melitzana horiatiki (an eggplant, tomato, feta, garlic, and olive oil salad). The kolokithokeftedes (zucchini-and-potato croquettes) are enormous. The owner's efforts have received gourmet awards for dishes like his lively tuna carppaccio, yet the place remains unpretentious and reasonably well priced for a seafood restaurant. They even produce their own wine and tsipouro. Don't confuse this modern, cream-hued restaurant with the snack bar with the same name up the road.
Main road, away from the tower, Ouranoupolis, Central Macedonia, 63075, Greece
Serving Thessaloniki's most well known fish-and-chips since 1940, this is a classic hangout where you can get your fingers greasy as you dig into crispy fried cod and fresh-cut fries. Your fish-and-chips are always accompanied by pungent skordalia garlic dip and casually served on grease-proof paper. Drink it down with a glass of tsipouro on ice, and if you are still hungry, try the stuffed eggplant or shrimp and feta saganaki as well.
Katouni 3 and Fasianou 2, Thessaloniki, Central Macedonia, 54625, Greece
Being one of the older restaurants in Kavala means that this establishment nets the freshest fish in town, so it comes as no suprise that most diners come for the ultra fresh seafood. Apart from the catch of the day why not try the seafood dishes like shrimp saganaki, lakerda (pickled fish), and sun-dried octopus grilled on charcoal. The seats out front are by far the most popular, with views of the water just across the street. Nevertheless, the authentic experience sometimes means achingly slow service, which frustrates many foreign tourists.
Dimitriou 20, Kavala, East Macedonia and Thrace, Greece
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