Fodor's Expert Review Ta Fanaria

Staikopoulou Street is one long outdoor dining room, with dozens of pretty, tourist-oriented tavernas serving night and day. There isn't much to separate them, but this venerable stop is perhaps a nose ahead of its neighbors, and still excellent value. The kitchen concentrates on excellent versions of such staples as ladera (vegetables cooked in olive oil), charcoal-grilled lamb ribs, and imam bayilda (eggplant stuffed with onions), and serves them beneath a bougainvillea arbor in a quiet lane next to the restaurant.