Fodor's Expert Review Garriane

Foodies appreciate Garriane's direct approach to eating and drinking well. Here a plain-Jane decor and a dim neighborhood spectacularly contrast with immaculate plates presented by the Aussie-bred chef (who incidentally shook up Perpignan's sleepy food scene with a strictly seasonal menu emphasizing local produce boldly prepared for an exotic outcome). Wine is the only choice you'll need make; after that the nine-course degustation begins, with dishes like citrusy wild partridge and butternut squash mousse promptly appearing one after the other, ending with three separate desserts (picture chocolate gazpacho garnished with ultrafresh, peppery olive oil).