5 Best Sights in The French Riviera, France

To the east of the port is the biggest beach you’ll find in Villefranche, but it’s only about 1 km (½ mile) long. Popular because the shoreline is protected from winds, this beach has coarse sand and lifeguards in the summer. Note that the SNCF train line runs parallel, so the noise factor is a consideration. There are no loungers, but there are jellyfish nets (though they aren't 100% foolproof). Amenities: lifeguards; showers; toilets. Best for: snorkeling; sunrise; swimming.

So enamored was Jean Cocteau of this painterly fishing port that he decorated the 14th-century Chapelle St-Pierre with images from the life of St. Peter and dedicated it to the village's fishermen.

Restored to perfect condition, the stalwart 16th-century Citadelle St-Elme anchors the harbor with its broad, sloping stone walls. Beyond its drawbridge lie the city's administrative offices and a group of minor gallery-museums, with a scattering of works by Picasso and Miró. Whether or not you stop into these private collections (all free of charge), you're welcome to stroll around the inner grounds and circle the imposing exterior.

This modest Baroque church, above Rue Obscure, contains a movingly realistic sculpture of Christ carved in fig wood by an anonymous 17th-century convict.

Running parallel to the waterfront, the extraordinary 14th-century Rue Obscure (Dark Street) is entirely covered by vaulted arcades; it sheltered the people of Villefranche when the Germans fired their parting shots—an artillery bombardment—near the end of World War II. If playing tourist is building up your appetite, Focacceria Mei on Rue du Poilu (the next street up) has the best takeaway in town.