Fodor's Expert Review Nicolas L

In this food-centric town, native son Nicolas Lamstaes's deep understanding of the local products and his dozen years of training in some of France's great kitchens add up to a standout cuisine of character and refinement. Dishes like scallops served in a rich reduction of butternut squash, lobster, and smoked tea, followed by a sublime roasted hen with buttery parsnip, crisp boudin noir (blood sausage), and a sprinkle of chives are fresh, flavorful, and characteristic of the menu. Though alarmingly spare, the dining room's small size and crisp elegance save it from being cold. At €22 for three courses at lunch and €37 for a three-course dinner, you can hardly afford not to dine here.