Fodor's Expert Review Le Triskel

This miniature shoebox of an Old Town restaurant has a living santon for a chef—mustache, toque, and broad gestures worthy of Pagnol. While gesticulating and bantering with the loyal locals who crowd in elbow to elbow, he hauls heavy daubes from the wood-fire oven and ladles pot-au-feu over duck-leg confit. There are kidneys grilled with thyme, homemade gnocchi, eggplant gratiné, and, almost incidentally, yummy pizzas loaded with toppings and dripping with gooey cheese.