Fodor's Expert Review L'Atelier de Nicolas

An open kitchen, a chalkboard menu, a bright terrace, and friendly service combine to create a laid-back atmosphere here, but, when it comes to the food, chef Nicolas Epiard is on his toes, serving up traditional local cuisine with flair and exuberance. Try dishes like the meltingly tender, slow-cooked bull with wild morels and a puree of root vegetables or the sea bass with savory herb pistou (Provence's answer to pesto) and crisp vegetables. Desserts might include fig crumble or white chocolate mousse. A refreshing rosé (the locally influenced wine list has plenty of choices by the glass) is the perfect accompaniment to an exemplary meal that's easy on the wallet.