Fodor's Expert Review L'Affenage

A vast smorgasbord of Provençal hors d'oeuvres draws loyal locals to this former fire-horse shed. They come here for heaping plates of fried eggplant, green tapenade, chickpeas in cumin, and a slab of ham carved off the bone—followed by roasted potatoes and lamb chops grilled in the great stone fireplace. In summer you can opt for just the first-course buffet and go back for thirds; reserve a terrace table out front if you can—in the summer, call at least a week in advance.