Fodor's Expert Review Chez Etienne

A well-known hole-in-the-wall, this small pizzeria is filled daily with politicos, professionals, and other loyal patrons, who provide a soundtrack of laughter and chatter in the rich Marseille patois. Brace yourself for an epic meal, starting with a large anchovy pizza from the wood-burning oven, and then, perhaps, digging into fried squid, eggplant gratin, or a slab of rare grilled beef.