Fodor's Expert Review Hostellerie de l'Abbaye de La Celle

Chef Alain Ducasse put this beautifully restored property—part of a convent once charged with shaping the future queens of Provence—on the map when he took over both the restaurant (now headed by chef Nicolas Pierantoni) and the inn, where guest rooms mix Louis XVI furnishings with regional accents, and the grounds have private gardens and vineyard views. The kitchen is still formidable, with creations that superbly balance flavor and texture—perhaps hake with sweet-almond purée and gnocchi or saddle of lamb with squash and fried chickpea panisse.