Getting Oriented

The largest city on the banks of the Rhône after Lyon, Avignon is one of the most interesting places in the south of France: with a feast of medieval streets, crenellated palaces, and sweet museums, it is an ideal gateway to explore the lower Rhône area. Just up the highway are the sun-scorched vineyards of the Côtes du Rhône and the Roman ruins of Vaison-la-Romaine and Orange; just east is the perfectly picturesque Luberon countryside; 20 miles north lie the storybook hilltop villages of the Haut Vaucluse.

• Avignon. Avignon’s most famous bridge—the subject of a French children’s song—now stretches only halfway across the river, so don’t make the mistake of trying to drive across it. Take the next bridge to L’Île de la Barthelasse, an amazingly rural setting minutes from the city where you can ride a bike through orchards and overnight in lovely auberges.
• Haut Vaucluse. This region’s rolling hills and rock-strewn moonscapes, presided over by Mont Ventoux, Provence’s highest peak, are a graceful backdrop for vineyards, orchards, fields of purple lavender, perched villages, and some splendid ruins. There’s much to see here, so plan to spend some time and do as the natives do: slow down, savor, enjoy.
• The Sorgue Valley. If you’re fond of antiques, plan to join the festive hordes trawling for treasure at the famous Sunday flea market in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. After exploring the fancier antiquaires (antiques stores) in town, enjoy an idyllic lunch by one of the town watermills, then track down the "source" of the River Sorgue in the famous spring of Fontaine-de-Vaucluse—the fifth largest in the world.
• The Luberon. Like so many Luberon villages, Gordes might seem a touch too perfect at first sight. Persist and you can find real charm in its narrow, hilltop streets. To get off the beaten track, head to once-upon-a-time Oppède-le-Vieux, Bonnieux, and Lacoste, or stroll through Apt’s colorful Saturday market for a taste of la vraie (the real) Provence.