Fodor's Expert Review St-Étienne-du-Mont
This jewel box of a church has been visited by several popes paying tribute to Ste-Geneviève (the patron saint of Paris), who was buried here before Revolutionaries burned her remains. Built on the ruins of a 6th-century abbey founded by Clovis, the first king of the Franks, it has a unique combination of Gothic, Renaissance, and early Baroque elements, which adds a certain warmth that is lacking in other Parisian churches of pure Gothic style. Here you'll find the only rood screen left in the city—an ornate 16th-century masterwork of carved stone spanning the nave like a bridge, with a spiral staircase on either side. Observe the organ (dating from 1631, it is the city's oldest), the ornate wood-carved pulpit, and the marker in the floor near the entrance that commemorates an archbishop of Paris who was stabbed to death here by a defrocked priest in 1857. Guided tours are free, but a small offering is appreciated; call for times.