Fodor's Expert Review Takao Takano

After barely a year on his own, Takao Takano's eponymous restaurant earned off-the-charts accolades and a coveted Michelin star (now two) for his imaginative cuisine. Takano honed his craft during eight years as sous chef to Nicholas Le Bec (now in Shanghai), but he brings his own aesthetic to the fore in a warm, pared-down space outside the city center. Beautifully presented dishes, like tender Limousin lamb with artichokes and spicy olive oil; cucumber tarts with horseradish-inflected tarama and oyster-and-watercress gelée; roasted veal with bok choy, girolles mushrooms, and finely shaved lardo di Colonnata change according to the season.