Fodor's Expert Review Palégrié

A brilliant example of the bistronomie movement that's sweeping France, chef Guillaume Monjuré's sophisticated, fastidiously sourced cuisine is earning accolades from all quarters. Modest wooden tables and a spare decor belie a rich local fare rooted firmly in the bistro lexicon and imaginatively updated. Dishes like risotto perfumed with saffron and anise or luscious beef with wild trompettes de la mort mushrooms, black olives, and creamy rutabaga attest to this up-and-coming chef's flair with food. Spend just a few euros more for the menu improviste at dinner (€43), a perfect introduction to this ambitious cuisine.