Fodor's Expert Review Chez Hugon

One of the city's top-rated insider spots, this typical bouchon with the de rigueur red-check tablecloths sits behind the Musée des Beaux-Arts. Practically a club, it's crowded with regulars who trade quips with the owner while the kitchen prepares the best tablier de sapeur (tripe marinated in wine and fried in bread crumbs) in town. Whether you order the hunks of homemade pâté, the stewed chicken in wine vinegar sauce, or the plate of ris de veau (sweetbreads), your dinner will add up to good, inexpensive food and plenty of it.