Fodor's Expert Review Le Roscanvec

On a pedestrian street in the charming old city, this modern gastronomic restaurant ditches stuffiness in favor of a relaxed, contemporary approach to food. What it doesn't dispense with is seriousness in the kitchen: chef Thierry Seychelles seeks out top-quality ingredients from a wealth of local suppliers for his seasonal, meticulously presented cuisine. Start with oysters from the nearby Bay of Pénerf, cocotte of asparagus with lime hollandaise, tender foie gras–stuffed ravioli, or smoked eel with lemon confit in a parsley reduction, followed up by monkfish served with French caviar (depending on market availability and the chef's mood, of course). His take on the traditional kouign-amann pastry is made with apples and served warm with salted-caramel ice cream.