Getting Oriented

Along with Burgundy and Champagne, Bordeaux is one of the great wine regions of France. As the capital of the Gironde département and of the historic province of Aquitaine, the city of Bordeaux is both the commercial and cultural center of southwest France and an important transportation hub. It is smack-dab in the middle of one of the finest wine-growing areas in the world: Sauternes lies to the south, flat and dusty Médoc to the northwest, and Pomerol and St-Émilion to the east.

  • Bordeaux. Dominated geographically by the nearby Atlantic Ocean and historically by great wine merchants and shippers, Bordeaux has long ranked among France's largest cities. There is considerable, if concentrated, affluence, which hides behind 18th-century facades. Showing off may not be a regional trait but, happily, the city fathers left a bevy of cultural riches to discover, including the spectacular Place de la Bourse, the Grand Théâtre, and the Musée des Beaux-Arts.
  • The Médoc. Northwest of Bordeaux, this triangulated peninsula extends from the Gironde estuary to the Atlantic coast. Dutch engineers drained its marshy landscape in the 18th century to expose the gravelly soil that is excellent for growing grapes, and today the Médoc is home to several of the grands crus classés, including Château Margaux, Château Latour, Château Lafite Rothschild, and Château Mouton Rothschild. Public buses run here but stops are sometimes in the middle of nowhere—a car, bike, or guided tour may be the best option.
  • St-Émilion. On the right bank of the Dordogne, this region was put on the map by two great wine districts—St-Émilion and Pomerol. Crowds head here because the town of St-Émilion looks as delicious as its wines taste: a UNESCO World Heritage Site, this open-air museum was constructed out of a limestone plateau honeycombed with vast caves and passageways, the source for the golden stonework of its 19th-century houses and steep streets. During summer, the small town is often swamped with visitors, so plan your parking and hotels carefully.

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