Fodor's Expert Review Kosmos

Just a short walk from Stockmann's department store, this cozy restaurant has become a lunchtime favorite among businesspeople working nearby. Come evening, it's given over to artists and journalists. Its high ceilings and understated interior give it a Scandinavian air of simplicity and efficiency. Menu highlights include reindeer fillet in a sauce of spruce shoots and rosemary that's served with roasted potatoes, and vorschmack, a ground-meat and anchovy dish, which is served here with duchesse potatoes (a rich version of mashed), pickles, and beets.