One of Bulgaria's oldest settlements, Veliko Tarnovo is a popular weekend getaway for Bulgaria's upper-middle-class urbanites and a stop on the backpacker trail. It's an idyllic small town through which the Yantra River runs and terracotta-roofed homes sit on the ridges above it. Though there are several expat-run businesses, Veliko Tarnovo manages to maintain an air of Old World charm.
When there was every reason in the world to stay away and see the ruins, one woman traveled to Greece to get to work.
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