Ghent and the Leie

As in most Belgian towns, nightlife in Ghent centers around grazing, drinking, and talking with friends into the wee hours. However, the city's massive student population ensures a much busier, more varied nightlife than you'll find in the likes of Bruges or other towns in Flanders. Consequently, locals have come up with a very Belgian compromise to ensure tensions don't arise between residents and students. In an idea akin to horror film The Purge, the worst of the student revelry is contained within one hedonistic street containing 35 bars known as Overpoort. Such is its reputation that the police have been known to tape off the area and let the kids work out their frustrations. The consequence is that, despite the huge student population, the center isn't dominated by beer-fueled teens and is left mostly to the delectation of tourists and locals. But should you still desire to shake your booty away from the mayhem of Overpoort, the area around Oude Beestenmarkt and Vlasmarkt, near Portus Ganda, is a good spot for clubs, albeit of the cheesier variety.

There are special dance nights, several gay bars, and lots of gay and lesbian organizations providing help and advice. The tourist office even provides a gay and lesbian city map.

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  • 1. Gruut

    Brewer Annick de Splenter's prolific brewpub has lost none of its ability to surprise. Based in an old galley, relics of the building's former life remain, with various cow statues proliferating the bar. Gruut's beers are made to a medieval recipe, using herbs, not hops; the result is a more subtle, lighter-tasting brew than the usual Belgian offering. Tours of the brewery (€20) can be arranged; you can even add a boat trip to your visit. If you have the time, spare some for its "beeralchemy" sessions (€22) and the chance to brew your own herb beer to take home; it's easily done in an afternoon and the session includes a brief tour and tastings.

    Rembert Dodoensdreef 1, Ghent, Flanders, 9000, Belgium
    09-269–0269
  • 2. Brouwbar

    A microbrewery that leans more to the U.S. craft ale style than its native Belgian, though the odd saison does appear. This plucky bar typically has eight beers on tap at any one point. A home-brewers mentality means it's constantly changing beers but you'll always find an IPA or New England--style brew to slake your thirst. 

    Oudburg 70a–72a, Ghent, Flanders, 9000, Belgium
    0485-406–319
  • 3. Dok Brewing Co.

    Dok Noord

    It's a bit of a distance from the center of town, but well worth the excursion. This microbrewery and taproom is the largest and most experimental in Ghent, with 30 beers on tap. Set in the old Dok Noord complex, around 10 to 15 are brewed on-site, and are only ever made once. The choice is almost overwhelming. Hour-long brewery tours and tastings (€18) can be booked in advance, and the building also has independent street-food stalls inside, with BBQ joint RØK particularly recommended. 

    Dok-Noord 4B, Ghent, Flanders, 9000, Belgium
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