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Salzburg has some of the best—and most expensive—restaurants in Austria, so if you happen to walk into one of the Altstadt posh establishments without a reservation, you may get a sneer worthy of Captain von Trapp. Happily, the city is plentifully supplied with pleasant eateries, offering not only good, solid Austrian food (not
Salzburg has some of the best—and most expensive—restaurants in Austria, so if you happen to walk into one of the Altstadt posh establishments without a reservation, you may get a sneer worthy of Captain von Trapp. Happily, the city is plentifully supplied with pleasant
Salzburg has some of the best—and most expensive—restaurants in Austria, so if you happen to walk into one of the Altsta
Salzburg has some of the best—and most expensive—restaurants in Austria, so if you happen to walk into one of the Altstadt posh establishments without a reservation, you may get a sneer worthy of Captain von Trapp. Happily, the city is plentifully supplied with pleasant eateries, offering not only good, solid Austrian food (not for anyone on a diet), but also exceptional Italian dishes and neue Küche (nouvelle cuisine) delights. There are certain dining experiences that are quintessentially Salzburgian, including restaurants perched on the town's peaks that offer "food with a view" or rustic inns that offer "Alpine evenings" with entertainment. Some of the most distinctive places in town are the fabled hotel restaurants, such as those of the Goldener Hirsch or the "S’Nockerl," the cellar of the Hotel Elefant.
For fast food, Salzburgers love their broiled-sausages street stands. Some say the most delicious fare is found at the Balkan Grill at Getreidegasse 33 (its recipe for spicy Bosna sausage has always been a secret). For a quick lunch on weekdays, visit the market in front of the Kollegienkirche—a lot of stands offer a large variety of boiled sausages for any taste, ranging from mild to spiced.
In the more expensive restaurants the set menus give you an opportunity to sample the chef's best; in less expensive ones they help keep costs down. Note, however, that some restaurants limit the hours during which the set menu is available. Many restaurants are open all day; otherwise, lunch is served from approximately 11 to 2 and dinner from 6 to 10. In more expensive restaurants it's always best to make a reservation. At festival time most restaurants are open seven days a week, and have generally more flexible late dining hours.
The Pepper Ship is one of the most acclaimed restaurants in Salzburg, despite being five kilometers (three miles) northeast of the Neustadt. It's in a pretty, renovated rectory (dated 1640) and adjacent to a pink-and-cream chapel. You'll receive a friendly welcome and then settle in to a pampered experience in the country-chic atmosphere, adorned with polished wooden floors, antique hutches, and tabletops laden with fine bone china and Paloma Picasso silverware. The menu changes seasonally. A taxi is the least stressful way of getting here, but if you have your own car, drive along the north edge of the Kapuzinerberg toward Hallwang and then Söllheim.
Sip a Melange (frothy milk coffee) under the shade of the leafy trees at this people-watching coffeehouse institution on the Salzach River. Salads, soups, and toasted ham-and-cheese sandwiches served with ketchup satisfy savory cravings; homemade Topfen- and Apfelstrudel beckon from the glass case of house-made tortes. Marlene Dietrich, Max Reinhardt, Hugo von Hofmannsthal, Arturo Toscanini, and Seiji Ozawa are just a few of the famous faces to grace the terrace, and today well-known locals settle into dark-wood chairs at the small marble tables. Wood panels reach to the lofty recessed ceilings in the main dining area.
Schwarzstrasse 3, Salzburg, Salzburg, A-5020, Austria
Red-velvet banquettes, sparkling chandeliers, and lots of gilt mark this famous gathering place, a favorite of well-heeled Salzburgers and an outpost of the celebrated Vienna landmark. It's a perfect choice for a leisurely afternoon pastry. The most popular choice is the famous house-made chocolate Sachertorte, but there is also a large variety of irresistable cakes. Don't pass up the coffee, which is second to none. Full meals are also served, and the restaurant offers a no-smoking room.
Schwarzstrasse 5–7, Salzburg, Salzburg, A-5020, Austria
If you really want to enjoy food with a view, drive three kilometers (two miles) north along the B1 Linzer Bundesstrasse to Mayrwies and turn right up through the woods. Here you can take in a view of Salzburg from the mountainside perch of this former Rupertialm (St. Rupert's Pasture), a famous scenic lookout even in Mozart's time. Owned by St. Peter's Monastery, this restaurant allures with the romantic charm of an Alpine chalet. Seasonal specialties of the region top the bill: not only venison and fried trout but heavenly garnishes—cress, elder blossoms, herbs from the meadows, raspberries, blueberries, Schwammerl (mushrooms) fresh out of the forest, and cheese from goat and sheep. For breakfast, you need to make reservations at least the day before; lunch and dinner reservations are recommended but not compulsory.
Daxluegstrasse 5, Hallwang bei Salzburg, Salzburg, A-5300, Austria
This Weissbierbrauerei combines the original charm of one of Salzburg's most historic breweries and adds a high-ceilinged, wood-paneled modern bar to satisfy the many locals who consider it to be the ultimate private retreat (so much so that from Wednesday through Saturday it's best to make a reservation). The beer garden really hits the spot on a hot summer day, but all year long you can savor traditional Bavarian style Weisswurst (veal sausages with sweet mustard) as well as the usual array of tempting Salzburg delights.
Rupertgasse 10, Salzburg, Salzburg, A-5020, Austria
The name means "At the Faithful Ape," which explains the monkey motifs in this popular Gasthaus dominated by a round, copper-plated bar and stone pillars under a vaulted ceiling. Besides the beer on tap, the kitchen offers tasty Austrian dishes, such as Schlutzkrapfen, handmade cheese ravioli with a light topping of chopped fresh tomatoes, or a big salad with juicy Backhendl (breaded, fried chicken). Locals know this is a great value in a fun atmosphere, so it's often crowded; be sure to arrive early or book ahead.
Priesterhausgasse 8, Salzburg, Salzburg, A-5020, Austria
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