Getting Oriented in The North Coast and the Cordillera Central

The North Coast and Cordillera Central are two distinct regions, each with its own gorgeous geography (and, thus, its own road conditions). Highways 22 and 2 lead west out of San Juan, unspooling in a smooth, fast ribbon across the northern shore. Below the region's limestone (karst) formations sit Puerto Rico's famous caves. Head south on any secondary road to cut into the core of the island, through which the Cordillera Central runs east-to-west; these are typically two-lane roadways that wind through mountainous terrain.

This region sustained considerable damage from Hurricane María in 2017, so be especially cautious when traveling here. There are still few places to spend the night, and roads are undergoing repair, so check on conditions before heading out.

  • Dorado. Just west of the San Juan metro area is this laid-back beach town, which has been slowly but surely recovering from damage by Hurricane María.
  • Arecibo. This town—a good jumping off point for deeper exploration of the central mountain region—was once best known as the site of the world's largest radio telescope. In 2020, however, the device suffered a catastrophic malfunction, and its future is uncertain.
  • Lares. Amid the region's limestone "karst" country, this town makes a good side trip—for its history and its geology—from either Arecibo or Utuado.
  • Utuado. Despite having been battered by Hurricane María, this mountain town remains a beautiful base for exploring the island's interior.
  • Jayuya. Learn more about Taíno culture at Jayuya's Museo El Cemí, a uniquely shaped structure with symbolic significance.
  • Adjuntas. In Adjuntas, a gateway to Puerto Rico's coffee culture, you can stay in a small parador on the grounds of a coffee plantation.
  • Aibonito. Several legends attempt to explain the town's name; regardless of which one you choose to believe, Aibonito is "bonito"—especially during its annual flower festival.

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