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In cosmopolitan San Juan, European, Asian, Middle Eastern, and chic fusion eateries vie for your attention, with family-owned restaurants specializing in seafood or comida criolla (creole cooking, or local Puerto Rican food). U.S. chains such as McDonald's and Subway compete with chains like Pollo Tropical and El Mesón, which sp
In cosmopolitan San Juan, European, Asian, Middle Eastern, and chic fusion eateries vie for your attention, with family-owned restaurants specializing in seafood or comida criolla (creole cooking, or local Puerto Rican food). U.S. chains such as McDonald's and Subway co
In cosmopolitan San Juan, European, Asian, Middle Eastern, and chic fusion eateries vie for your attention, with family-
In cosmopolitan San Juan, European, Asian, Middle Eastern, and chic fusion eateries vie for your attention, with family-owned restaurants specializing in seafood or comida criolla (creole cooking, or local Puerto Rican food). U.S. chains such as McDonald's and Subway compete with chains like Pollo Tropical and El Mesón, which specialize in local cuisine. Many of the most innovative chefs here have restaurants in the city's large hotels, but don't be shy about venturing into stand-alone establishments—many concentrated in Condado and along Calles Fortaleza and San Sebastián in Old San Juan. Old San Juan is also home to a number of notable new restaurants and cafés, offering more artisanal-style cuisine—crop-to-cup coffee, rustic homemade pizzas, and creative vegetarian food—at affordable prices. There’s a radiant pride in what the local land can provide, and these enthusiastic young restaurateurs are redefining what Puerto Rican food is, bite by tasty bite.
The dress code varies greatly from place to place, although a restaurant's price category can be taken as a good indication. For less expensive places anything but beachwear is fine; ritzier spots will expect collared shirts and long pants for men ("jacket and tie" requirements are rare) and chic attire for women. When in doubt, do as the Puerto Ricans often do and dress up.
For breakfast outside of your hotel, cafés or panaderías (local bakeries) are your best bets. It's rare for such establishments to close between breakfast and lunch; it's slightly more common for restaurants to close between lunch and dinner. Although some places don't accept reservations, it's always a good idea to make them for dinner whenever possible. This is especially true during the busy season from November through April and on weekends at any time of the year.
Michelin-starred, Puerto Rico–born chef Juan José Cuevas operates this successful fine-dining restaurant in San Juan's most striking hotel, built in 1919 by the Vanderbilt family. The international dishes—served prix fixe or à la carte—change seasonally and emphasize local ingredients. The main dining room overlooks the Atlantic Ocean; elegant and sophisticated, it is large yet intimate, with Brazilian-tigerwood tables spread out to allow for privacy and comfort. Dark wood floors and three striking chandeliers with drooping pearl shells are other decor features that evoke the Gatsby era. You may find a sashimi trio of hamachi, scallops, and tuna; local honey-roasted duck breast; or cochinillo ravioli with burrata and caramelized eggplant on the menu. For pairings, choose from more than 200 wines, or take advantage of the champagne table service.
Peter Schintler, the U.S.-born owner-chef of Old San Juan's hippest—and finest—restaurant, apprenticed with Raymond Blanc and Gordon Ramsay. His dishes incorporate local and organic ingredients, and his cuisine is influenced by both California and French styles of cooking, resulting in complex flavors and strong aromas. Yellowtail is served with lemongrass and compressed watermelon while the pork cheeks are served with a peach-poblano marmalade. For dessert, indulge in the Millionaires ice cream, topped with honeycomb and shaved truffles. You can build your own four- to six-course tasting menu, perhaps choosing wine pairings from the excellent list, and the restaurant accommodates vegetarians, vegans, and those with dietary restrictions. The sensual, minimalist, orange-and-white decor features high-back chairs and cushioned banquettes that are comfortable and modern.
Driven by local ingredients and seasonality, chef Francis Guzman’s dishes are culinary delights (think: California cuisine with Puerto Rican and Caribbean influences). The service is fantastic, and the wine list and cocktail menu are strong—anything with mezcal is a particularly good choice. Start with the roots salad with roasted beets and horseradish or the almojábanas (a type of cheese bread) with candied papaya. If there's a crudo on offer, order it without hesitation. Reservations are strongly recommended.
1413 Av. Ponce de León, San Juan, n/a Puerto Rico, 00907, Puerto Rico
Modern light fixtures, exposed walls, and repurposed decorative accents give Cocina Abierta one of the coolest decors in Condado. Chef Martin Louzao prepares eclectic, multicourse omnivore, pescatarian, and vegetarian menus. Grilled Spanish octopus terrine, duck-confit-stuffed mofongo, and ripe plantain carpaccio brûlée with tuna tataki are house favorites. Vegetarian options might include roasted butternut squash soup or mushroom ceviche Peruvian causa. Behind Cocina Abierta are Atelier, a cooking school, and Oriundo, a pop-up restaurant also headed by chef Louzao.
Proprietor Yareli Manning runs this food-truck park in the heart of Miramar, where seating is at communal picnic tables. Though the roster of vehicles changes, regulars include Meatball Company, Yummy Dumplings, and Pa'l Pita. One truck sells beer and mixed drinks.
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