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Touring Jamaica can be both thrilling and frustrating. Rugged (albeit beautiful) terrain and winding (often potholed) roads make for slow going. Always check conditions before you set off by car, but especially in the rainy season, June through October, when roads can be washed out. Two-lane primary roads that loop around and ac
Touring Jamaica can be both thrilling and frustrating. Rugged (albeit beautiful) terrain and winding (often potholed) roads make for slow going. Always check conditions before you set off by car, but especially in the rainy season, June through October, when roads can b
Touring Jamaica can be both thrilling and frustrating. Rugged (albeit beautiful) terrain and winding (often potholed) ro
Touring Jamaica can be both thrilling and frustrating. Rugged (albeit beautiful) terrain and winding (often potholed) roads make for slow going. Always check conditions before you set off by car, but especially in the rainy season, June through October, when roads can be washed out. Two-lane primary roads that loop around and across the island are not particularly well marked. Numbered addresses are seldom used outside major townships, locals drive aggressively, and people and animals have a knack for appearing out of nowhere. That said, Jamaica's scenery shouldn't be missed. To be safe and avoid frustration, stick to guided tours and licensed taxis.
If you're staying in Kingston or Port Antonio, set aside at least one day for the capital and another for a guided excursion to the Blue Mountains. There's at least three days of activity along Mo'Bay's boundaries, but also consider a day trip to Negril or Ocho Rios. If you're based in Ocho Rios, be sure to visit Dunn's River Falls; you may also want to stop by Bob Marley's birthplace, Nine Mile, or Firefly, the restored home of Noël Coward. If Negril is your hub, take in the South Coast, including Y.S. Falls and the Black River.
One of Jamaica's most stunning natural waterfalls, Reach Falls was discovered by runaway slaves from nearby plantations who sought refuge in the hills of Portland. One of the waterfall's most fascinating features is the holes in the rocks that have been carved by flowing water—the most fun (and slightly terrifying) is the rabbit hole, which leads to a secret underwater cave that you can swim in!
On the Daniels River, these falls are in a veritable botanical garden. A concrete walk takes you past the ruins of a Spanish aqueduct and Genesis Falls before reaching Hidden Falls. At Hidden Falls itself you board a boat and travel beneath the tumbling water; more daring travelers can swim in a whirlpool or jump off the falls into a pool of water. There are also waterslides for kids and lifeguards on deck. The bar and restaurant specializes in jerk chicken and local seafood and is a great place to catch your breath.
Steeped in lore, Blue Lagoon is one of Port Antonio's best-known attractions. The azure waters of this spring-fed lagoon are a contrast to the warmer waters of the ocean. How deep is it? According to legend it's bottomless, but it's been measured at 180 feet. There is no fee to access the lagoon, but there are unofficial guides who offer their services and try to make you believe that there is an entry fee. Also numerous vendors have set up at the entry hawking their wares and creating a noisy juxtaposition to the peaceful natural scenery of the lagoon.
Steeped in lore, Blue Lagoon is one of Port Antonio's best-known attractions. The azure waters of this spring-fed lagoon are a contrast to the warmer waters of the ocean. How deep is it? According to legend, it's bottomless, but it's been measured at 180 feet. There is no fee to access the lagoon, but there are unofficial guides who offer their services and try to make you believe that there is an entry fee. Also, numerous vendors have set up at the entry hawking their wares and creating a noisy juxtaposition to the peaceful natural scenery of the lagoon.
Considered the birthplace of jerk-style cooking, Boston Bay is the beach that some locals visit just to buy dinner. You can get peppery jerk pork at any of the shacks spewing scented smoke along the small beach, perfect for an after-lunch dip, though these waters are occasionally rough and much more popular for surfing. Boards are available for rent. Amenities: food and drink; parking (no fee); toilets; showers. Best for: snorkeling; sunrise; surfing; windsurfing.
A short drive east of Port Antonio is this destination for lovers of jerk pork. The recipe's origins go back to the Arawak, the island's original inhabitants, but modern jerk was perfected by the Maroons. Eating almost nothing but wild hog preserved over smoking coals enabled these former slaves to survive years of fierce guerrilla warfare with the English. Jerk resurfaced in the 1930s, and the spicy barbecue drew diners from around the island. Today a handful of jerk stands, known as the Boston Jerk Centre, offers fiery flavors cooled by festival (like a Southern hush puppy) and Red Stripe beer.
Rte. A4, east of Port Antonio, Port Antonio, Portland, Jamaica
On Titchfield Hill, this fine example of elegant 18th-century Victorian architecture has period decor and furnishings. It's also next to other architecturally interesting buildings on Musgrave Street. Interested guests may choose to spend the night for $50 to $170, depending on the room category.
21 Fort George St., Port Antonio, Portland, Jamaica
Since 1888, this red-and-white-stripe masonry lighthouse has stood watch at the tip of Folly Point. Administered by the Jamaica National Heritage Trust, the lighthouse is an often-photographed site near Port Antonio's East Harbour. The lighthouse is down a very rough road that looks abandoned. It is not advisable to go alone.
A favorite photo stop, this structure, little more than ruins, was home to a Tiffany heiress. Built in 1905 and spanning 60 rooms, the house didn't last long because seawater, rather than freshwater, was used in the cement. The ruins have been featured in music videos. In August, the PAN Food Festival is held nearby at the Folly Oval. The property is down a rough road, and it is surrounded by a huge chain-link fence. However, the gate to the fence is wide open. The site is out of the way, and it is probably best not to go there alone.
This beautiful, petite, somewhat secluded beach is protected by two outcroppings, creating calm waters good for families. A small stream trickles into the cove. You'll find a bar and restaurant serving fried chicken right on the beach. If this stretch of sand looks familiar, it might be because you've seen it in the movies: Club Paradise (1986), Knight and Day (2010), and The Mighty Quinn (1989). Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; parking (fee); showers; toilets. Best for: partiers; sunrise; swimming.
Jamaica's river-rafting operations began here, on an 8-mile-long (13-km-long), swift, green waterway from Berrydale to Rafter's Rest. (Beyond that, the Rio Grande flows into the Caribbean Sea at St. Margaret's Bay.) The trip of about three hours is made on bamboo rafts pushed along by a guide who is likely to be quite a character. You can pack a picnic lunch to enjoy on the raft or on the riverbank; if you lunch onshore, a Red Stripe vendor is likely to appear. A restaurant, a bar, and several souvenir shops can be found at Rafter's Rest.
This small beach has beautiful blue water. Monkey Island, just offshore, is a good place to snorkel (and, sometimes, surf). Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; parking (no fee); toilets. Best for: snorkeling; swimming.
5 miles (8 km) east of Port Antonio, Port Antonio, Portland, Jamaica
This is one of the most popular beaches on Jamaica's east coast, mainly because there is no entry fee. Vendors will, however, ask for a donation to help with upkeep. The beach is clean, with a relaxed atmosphere and a few stalls on the beach selling local food, crafts, and souvenirs. Boat rides and horseback riding are also offered. Amenities: food and drink; parking (fee); toilets. Best for: swimming.
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