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Creole cooking is the result of a fusion of influences: African, European, Indian, and Caribbean. It's colorful, spicy, and made up primarily of local seafood and vegetables (including squashlike christophenes), root vegetables, and plantains, always with a healthy dose of pepper sauce. Favorite appetizers include accras (salted
Creole cooking is the result of a fusion of influences: African, European, Indian, and Caribbean. It's colorful, spicy, and made up primarily of local seafood and vegetables (including squashlike christophenes), root vegetables, and plantains, always with a healthy dose
Creole cooking is the result of a fusion of influences: African, European, Indian, and Caribbean. It's colorful, spicy,
Creole cooking is the result of a fusion of influences: African, European, Indian, and Caribbean. It's colorful, spicy, and made up primarily of local seafood and vegetables (including squashlike christophenes), root vegetables, and plantains, always with a healthy dose of pepper sauce. Favorite appetizers include accras (salted codfish fritters), boudin (highly seasoned blood sausage), and crabes farcis (stuffed land crabs). Langouste (lobster), lambi (conch), chatrou (octopus), and ouassous (crayfish) are considered delicacies. Souchy (Tahitian-style ceviche), raw fish that is "cooked" when marinated in lime juice or similar marinades, is best at seafront restaurants. Moules et frites (mussels in broth served with fries) can be found at cafés, both in the Marina in St-François and Bas du Fort Marina. Many of the best restaurants are in Jarry, a commercial area near Pointe-à-Pitre. All restaurants and bars are smoke-free, as decreed by French law.
Diverse culinary options range from pizza and crepes to Indian cuisine. For a quick and inexpensive meal, visit a boulangerie, where you can buy luscious French pastries and simple baguette sandwiches. Look for the recommendable chain Baguet. Good news: while menu prices may seem high, prices include tax and service, but a small extra tip in cash is expected, just as in France. In most restaurants in Guadeloupe (as throughout the Caribbean), lobster is the most expensive item on the menu.
What to Wear: Dining is casual at lunch, but beach attire is not appropriate except at the most laid-back beachside eateries. Dinner is slightly more formal. Long pants, collared shirts, and skirts or dresses are appreciated, although not required. Guadeloupean ladies like to "dress," particularly on weekends, so don't arrive in flip-flops—they'll be in heels.
On the curve of Plage de Petite Anse, this casual hotel restaurant is the “happening” place on Marie-Galante. It has tables in the sand, stylish Euro decor, and the freshest, most delicious seafood cooked Franco/Caribbean style. Chef José Viator does wonders with fish carpaccio, bébélé (a flavorful creole dish with tripe and dumplings), and grilled lobster. Set menus are the best value at both lunch and dinner. On weekends, the Creole Brunch from 11 to 4 is particularly celebratory; on weekend nights, there's entertainment or dancing. Pergola's, the circular bar, has some of the island's best rum cocktails.
You may hear that one of the best tables on the island is found at the small hôtel de charme La Rose du Brésil---and the rumor is true. Shellfish abounds here, and desserts are inspired by the island's tropical fruits. First, order a fresh-squeezed lime daiquiri. You will likely want two.
Rte. du littoral, D 203, Marie-Galante, 97140, Guadeloupe
This hip place on the water, flanked by the town pier, is named for Henri Vergerolle, the passionate chef-owner—an island character who spent much of his life in France but returned to open this restaurant and cultural center. Everything is fresh here, but the limited menu might have only three main courses available (you can always choose the fish of the day). Just kick back, begin with a rum and fresh-squeezed juice, and listen to African blues.
8 Avenue des Caraïbes, Marie-Galante, 97134, Guadeloupe
This colorful waterfront café offers free Wi-Fi, books and newspapers to read, teas and coffees, wine, and icy rum cocktails, all of which encourage lounging. After sunset, there are aperitifs; and although reservations are requested for dinner, the friendly, accommodating staff also takes walk-ins. Finish off with the house-made punch du monde. To get here from the main dock, take a left to the main street and walk two blocks. It's across from the kayak-rental company.
33 Rue Jean Calot, Terre-de-Haut, Iles des Saintes, 97137, Guadeloupe
0590-92–70–98
Known For
Sushi
Smoked fish plates
House-made punch du monde
Restaurant Details
Rate Includes: Closed Thurs., Sept. and Oct. No dinner Sun.
Delicious Caribbean-accented French cuisine draws diners to this open-air restaurant, where a specialty is fresh lobster plucked from the petite lagoon that beautifies the deck. The classy, colorful, open-air dining room lounge has deep leather chairs and, on occasion, a piano player and live music. You can listen whether you just have a drink at the bar or sit down for dinner. Lunch patrons dine on the terrace near the infinity pool. With your feet dangling in the water and an exotic cocktail in hand, you can watch the sea churning below.
Rte. de l'Hôtel Toubana, Grande-Terre, 97180, Guadeloupe
Guests may at first be attracted to the gorgeous views of dive boats going to Pigeon Island but return again and again for food. After climbing the worn yellow stairs, diners take a seat on the open, multilevel deck for a delicious meal and the gorgeous panorama. Fish is fresh off the boat and your best bet here, though meat and poultry are not neglected. The menu is extensive. Select your lobster from a pool. Both servers and managers are friendly and efficient for such a busy place; one or more will be English-speaking. Make a reservation if you want the best view.
Even if there's a downpour, the overhanging gingerbread roof over your terrace table will keep you dry as the food and music keep your spirits high. The family-owned restaurant overlooking crystalline Deshaies Bay is a dream fulfilled, and much of its success is directly related to the varied international experiences of the family members. Emilia, the matriarch who is Portuguese and lived in Angola for years, brings the African decor and name. Vincent Potiron, the patriarch who is French and was a candy maker in Switzerland, is the chef and pastry chef. Daughter Tatiana is the welcoming, English-speaking server. Chef Vincent prides himself on using the freshest fish and produce. Lobster must be ordered in advance, as he orders them only as needed and does a simple preparation with parsley butter. Some diners feel that Savane is expensive, but quality ingredients coupled with creativity make for happy forks.
238 Blvd. des Poissonniers, Basse-Terre, 97126, Guadeloupe
0590-91–39–58
Known For
Pumpkin and sweet potato soup
Chicken with peanut and honey sauce
Ouassous in coconut milk with red curry
Restaurant Details
Rate Includes: Closed Wed. No lunch in low season. No lunch Mon.–Fri. in high season, Reservations essential
A historic sugar mill is the backdrop for refined French preparations paired with local produce. The lunch menu is a mix of classic restaurant food and lighter dishes. A prix-fixe menu including a main course and a starter or dessert is available. At dinner a more classically French menu, with Caribbean influences, offers both meat and seafood. It is a marriage of tradition and modernity, with rich flavors and Creole specialities. Desserts are dazzling, with the pastry chef turning out towers, sauces, and glacés. On Friday and Wednesday nights, there's piano music in the lounge. Hotel guests also eat breakfast here and on the terrace overlooking the sea. Some dinner tables are now set out there, too.
Rte. de Montauban, Grande-Terre, 97190, Guadeloupe
This small, convivial waterfront restaurant is artsy and fun, with contemporary, original works on the wall, hanging plants, and hip music. But you will also like the excellent French cuisine: fresh grilled fish—plus authentic pomme frites—makes an ideal meal out on the beach terrace. Le choucroute de la mer, a Caribbean-accented version of the Alsatian specialty, is also a great choice: fish, scallops, and mussels in a white wine sauce. Desserts are also divine, but note that soufflés must be ordered in advance. There are two well-priced, three-course, prix-fixe menus (one with lobster) to help keep prices in check.
10 Rue Benoit Cassin, Terre-de-Haut, Iles des Saintes, 97137, Guadeloupe
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