Western Cuba
We’ve compiled the best of the best in Western Cuba - browse our top choices for the top things to see or do during your stay.
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1. Jardín Botanico Orquideario Soroa
Covering 35,000 square meters, this hillside botanical garden is a wild tangle of flowering vines, fragrant gingers, waist-high begonias and epiphyte-laden trees growing out of rocks. The centerpiece is a tidy greenhouse filled with blooming orchids. Back in the 1940s, a wealthy Havana lawyer and orchid fancier hired a Japanese gardener to design this glorious garden in his daughter's memory. Stone pathways bordered by plant-covered rocky outcroppings wind uphill to a lookout. The footing is a little precarious and the garden is quite wild, but beautiful. Birds abound, so be sure to bring along binoculars. The garden is also a study center for budding botanists and there is an expert guide on hand.
Carretera de Soroa, Km 7, Soroa, Artemisa, Cuba4852–3871Sight Details
Rate Includes: Entrance fee CUC$3, additional CUC$1 to bring camera or CUC$2 to bring in a video camera, Daily 8:30--4:30 -
2. Museo Ciencias Naturales
Installed in a fantastical Moorish palace, dripping with carved stone griffins, this museum is even more fascinating for its outlandish architecture and quaint, old-fashioned displays than for its hodgepodge, natural history collection. Built by a wealthy doctor in 1909, this private residence was known as the Guasch Palace. After the Revolution, the doctor's son "gifted" the building to the state and it was officially renamed after a self-taught, 19th-century Cuban scientist named Tranquilino Sandalio de Noda. The exhibits include dusty dioramas of desiccated stuffed specimens, from antelope to zebra, plus an array of mounted animal heads on the walls. There's a room dedicated to butterfly and moth collections, and a shell collection is displayed in showcases held up by carved seahorses. The delightful surprise here is the interior garden where, amid Art Nouveau painted floor tiles, intricately carved wooden doors and tropical plants, a giant concrete model of a demonically grinning tyrannosaurus Rex reigns. Pay the extra to bring in your camera; there are photo ops everywhere you look. Across the street from the museum there are two side-by-side, brightly colored restaurants competing for lunch business.
Calle Marté Este 202, Pinar del Río, Pinar del Río, 20100, Cuba4877--9483Sight Details
Rate Includes: CUC$1, CUC$2 for camera, Mon.--Sat. 9--5, Sun. 9--1 -
3. Museo Farmaceútico Triolet
The city's main, not-to-be-missed sight is this perfectly preserved, 19th-century natural-medicine pharmacy. Established in 1882 by Ernesto Triolet and his son-in-law, Juan Fermín de Figueroa, this gorgeous emporium looks out onto the Parque de Libertad through large stained glass windows. The pharmacy closed its doors in 1964, and has been preserved exactly as it was on that day, down to the huge, ornate cash register; the log book with handwritten recipes for each prescription; the rolls of brown paper to wrap the glass bottles that were individually filled and labeled; and the ceiling-high, handsome wood-and-glass cases holding hundreds of decorative porcelain jars. Guided tours take you to the distillery behind the shop, where the pharmacists manufactured their world-famous trademark syrups and tonics. Medicine bottles, embossed with the pharmacy's name, were made in Philadelphia and shipped to Cuba. Don't miss the bronze crocodile used to compress and calibrate the corks that, before the screw-top, sealed vials. The tour continues upstairs in the lavish living quarters of the owners—natural medicine was obviously a profitable business. An art gallery on the mezzanine floor showcases stained glass works—including small glass bird mobiles for sale—made by a studio that occupies the top floor.
Calle Milanés (Ca. 83), esq. de Calle Santa Teresa (Ca. 290), Matanzas, Matanzas Province, 40100, Cuba4524–3179Sight Details
Rate Includes: CUC$3, Mon.–Sat. 10–6, Sun. 8--noon -
4. Museo Oscar María de Rojas
This beautifully restored museum, housed in an elegant, colonnaded 1918 building, is worth a visit for its wide-ranging exhibits on everything from archeology to ethnology to numismatics to colonial weaponry. Perhaps most interesting is the re-creation of the original exhibition space, as it would have been presented 100 years ago, in a high-ceilinged hall with an upper, wooden gallery. Lots of natural light illuminates the quirky, Victorian-era potpourri of natural-history exhibits, from bugs, butterflies, polymitas (snails with multicolored shells), to preserved fleas in nuptial dress, viewed under a magnifying glass. Antique buttons and buckles, pen nibs, death masks, a Masonic lodge throne in the shape of a peacock—you never know what oddity you will come across. On the historical side, there are the usual photographs of Cárdenas heroes of the wars of independence and the Revolution and a gruesome reminder of the risks rebels took, in the form of the garotte used to strangle victims to death. The museum has a beautiful, bright inner courtyard displaying some lovely, early 19th-century furniture, as well as an ornate horse-drawn hearse.
Calle Calzada 4 y Calle 13, Cárdenas, Matanzas Province, 42110, Cuba4552–4126Sight Details
Rate Includes: CUC$5, Mon.–Sat. 9–6, Sun. 9–1 -
5. Parque Nacional Ciénaga de Zapata
Bird-watchers from all over the world flock to this national park in hopes of feasting their eyes on some 190 bird species, including 21 endemic species. Even if you're not a passionate birder, you can still enjoy watching a mass of wading birds—flamingos, wood storks, sandhill cranes—feeding here. The park forms about half of a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve that also includes the Las Salinas Wildlife Sanctuary. The combined reserve covers 4,520 sq km (1,641 sq miles) encompassing mangroves, cactus, dry woods, savannahs, salt pans and forest, providing habitat for reptiles, mammals, and all those birds. It's a mecca for fly-fishermen and hikers, as well. Bird-watching platforms on the way out to Las Salinas offer a chance to see some of the endemic species, such as the eponymous Zapata Rail and Zapata Wren, along with the red, white, and blue tocororo—Cuba's national bird and the zunzuncito (Bee Hummingbird), the smallest bird in the world. The main access to the park is via Playa Larga at the head of the Bahía de los Cochinos. Check in at the park office in Playa Largo a day before you plan to visit the vast park, to plan which area you want to explore, pay your entrance fee (CUC$10), and make arrangements for hiring a guide (CUC$10).
Playa Larga, Matanzas Province, 43000, Cuba4598--7249-park officeSight Details
Rate Includes: CUC$10 entry fee, CUC$10 guide fee, Park, daily sunrise--sunset; park office, daily 9--5 -
Recommended Fodor’s Video
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6. Playa Varadero
Visitors know it as Varadero, but locals call this 20-km (12 ½-mile) stretch of white-sand Caribbean beach Playa Azul, for the intense azure skies mirrored in the blue water. This spectacular beach along the north shore of the Hicacos Peninsula, is on a narrow finger of land that juts out into the Florida Straits. It segues into shallow, warm Caribbean waters, ideal for swimming and paddling. You can walk for miles along the beach, past the variously color-coded cabanas and lounge chairs of the 50 or so hotels that have access to the beach. There are, however, a few rocky areas where the sand disappears, so don’t set off on a long beach walk without sandals or beach shoes. Although the hotel properties and lounges are for guests only, there is no rule against walking along the shore and taking a dip in the sea whenever you need to cool off. Most hotels supply kayaks or small boats, but divers and snorkelers will have to take excursions to other waters. Sunsets and sunrises are spectacular all along the beach. You can even have the beach to yourself when other hotel guests have departed for the dinner and evening shows. Amenities: food, drinks, lounge chairs and sun shades, toilets and showers, provided by hotels all along the beach, for guests only. Best for: swimming, sunning, walking, jogging, sunsets.
Avenida Playa, Varadero, Matanzas Province, Cuba -
7. Caleta Buena
Just east of Playa Girón, the sea has formed a series of natural pools by entering through underwater caves, creating the largest flooded cavern in Cuba. The bottom of sponge and coral is a polychromatic marvel, as are the many tropical fish. Experienced, well-equipped divers can follow a 25-meter (83-foot) tunnel through the limestone leading out to the sea. The on-site dive shop charges CUC$25 for a dive, including gear; and CUC$5 to rent snorkeling gear. There's no need for boats as the dive area is close. Night dives can also be arranged. The on-site restaurant is open until 5 and specializes in shrimp and lobster. There's a CUC$15 charge that includes lunch and drinks, and access to the natural pool. In spring, be prepared for roads covered with dead land crabs and their attendant vultures.
Playa Girón, Matanzas Province, Cuba4559–5589Sight Details
Rate Includes: CUC$15; snorkel equipment rental CUC$5; diving equipment rental CUC$25, Daily 10–5 -
8. Catedral de San Carlos
Recently restored on the outside, this massive, Neoclassical church with two ornate towers is famous for its interior frescoes. In front of the church, there is a huge ceiba tree with a heavy, metal bell hanging from one of the branches, commemorating the bells that were rung to call in slaves from the sugar plantations. On the ground below lies a large, antique metal gear from a sugar mill.
Calle del Medio between Milanés y Calle 282, Matanzas, Matanzas Province, 40100, Cuba4524–8342Sight Details
Rate Includes: Weekdays 8–noon and 2:30–5, Sun. 9–noon -
9. Criadero de Cocodrilos
From the safety of wooden walkways, you can observe some 3,000 crocodiles in various stages of development at this breeding center-cum-tourist attraction. The original enterprise was the idea of Celia Sánchez, one of Fidel Castro's close companions and advisers, who was determined to restore the failing crocodile and caiman populations in the Cienaga Swamp. Today, buses crowd the parking lot bringing tour groups for the guided tour, which takes about 45 minutes. Along the way you can stroke a baby crocodile and have your photo taken cradling a three-year-old croc. The guides fill you in on such crocodilian factoids as: these naturally aggressive creatures can jump 1 meter (3 feet) high and run as fast as a horse for 80 meters (264 feet), reaching speeds of up to 60 kph (37 mph). So stay on the walkway! After visiting with the crocodiles, if you're not too sensitive, you can lunch on crocodile steaks at two on-site restaurants, La Boca and El Ranchón. The Ranchón is smaller and cheaper, and has live music to accompany your reptilian repast (CUC$10). The entrance fee to the breeding center includes a soft drink or glass of juice. Boat tours to the Laguna de Tesoro model village leave from a dock here.
Km 19 on road south of Australia, Playa Girón, Matanzas Province, 43000, Cuba4591–5662Sight Details
Rate Includes: CUC$5, Daily 9:30–5, Kids under 2 years, free -
10. Cueva de Ambrosio
Discovered in the 1960s, this cave contains aboriginal drawings of concentric circles and other pre-Columbian symbols, thought to be more than 3,000 years old. To get to the cave entrance, you must follow a shady path 300 meters (990 feet).
Autopista Sur, near Royalton Hicacos Hotel, Varadero, Matanzas Province, 42200, CubaSight Details
Rate Includes: CUC$3, Mon.–Sat. 9–4:30 -
11. Cueva del Indio
This spectacular and massive cave is named for the aboriginal Guanahatabey. Dripping with limestone formations, it's spooky enough to thrill even grown-ups. Visitors enter the cave through a narrow opening and follow a well-beaten, dimly lighted stone trail for 255 meters (842 feet), narrowing and widening until you reach a high-ceilinged grotto and an underground river. You board a boat here for a short cruise (300 meters [990 feet]) past illuminated stalagmites. The guide points a laser at shapes and if you really use your imagination you can just make out a champagne bottle, a skull, a crocodile, a sea horse, and even the Niña, Pinta, and Santa María. The boat takes you out of the cave through a narrow, vine-draped opening in the rock. Souvenir vendors await as you disembark. Don't miss the chance to have your photo taken atop Tomás, a huge, but placid, water buffalo. His handler will even lend you his straw hat so you can really look the part of a guajiro; a tip is expected. This is a popular spot on the tour-bus circuit, so try to come early or late in the day for a chance to have the cave more to yourself.
On road to San Vicente, Valle de Viñales, Pinar del Río, 22400, Cuba4879–6280Sight Details
Rate Includes: CUC$5, Daily 9–5 -
12. Cueva Punta del Este
About 60 km (38 miles) southeast of Nueva Gerona, this series of five coastal caves is famous for well-preserved, pre-Colombian wall paintings, sometimes referred to as "The Sistine Chapel of the Caribbean." Don't expect angels and human figures, but the colorful, geometric pictographs are intriguing. As the year proceeds, the sunlight that beams into the caves illuminates different parts of the aboriginal artwork, vestiges of the Ciboney culture, dating from around 900 BC, The Colony Puerto Sol hotel can arrange guides and visits to the site.
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13. Delfinario Varadero
For a pleasant break from the beach, you can watch a troupe of acrobatic dolphins show off their tricks in a 35-minute show (CUC$20) and take photos (an extra CUC$5). If you want to dive in and swim with the dolphins, it costs an extra CUC$60. You can also have your photo taken with a dolphin in the background (CUC$5).
Delfinario, Varadero, Matanzas Province, 42200, Cuba4566–8031Sight Details
Rate Includes: CUC$20, Daily 9--5, performances at 11 and 3:30 -
14. El Palenque/Cueva de José Miguel
The dimly lighted, rough 140-meter (462-foot) tunnel piercing this mogote opens onto an eerily quiet open space ringed by high limestone rocks. There's a rather shabby replica of a Cimarron campsite with life-size figures of escaped slaves. But if you arrive before a tour group, it's quite peaceful here. The thatch-roof, outdoor bohío-style restaurant in this clearing has a huge brick oven to roast chicken and pork; a main course and dessert costs less than CUC$6. At the entrance to the cave, sheltered by the rock overhang is El Palanque de los Cimarrones, a popular disco/bar/restaurant that stays open late and all night on Saturday.
Km 32 on Hwy. 241, Valle de Viñales, Pinar del Río, 22400, Cuba4879--6290Sight Details
Rate Includes: CUC$3, Cave: daily 9--6; restaurant: daily 9--4; disco/bar: nightly 9 pm--3:30 am -
15. Fábrica de Bebidas Guayabita
On a narrow side street south of the city center, this small distillery occupies a former rum factory. Just about every process is done by hand, from pouring the tiny guayabita berries into huge, wooden fermenting barrels, to bottle washing, to tapping corks into the bottles, to affixing the old-fashioned labels. Visitors can taste the finished product in the shop. The dry version, which ferments for three months, is a fiery blast of brandy; the sweet version is more like a plum eau de vie. A bottle costs around CUC$6. It's noisy, messy and often crowded with tour groups, but it's a glimpse of how a truly authentic Cuban product is still being produced. It's not easy to find, so hire a pedal cab.
Calle Isabel Rubio 189, Pinar del Río, Pinar del Río, 20100, CubaSight Details
Rate Includes: CUC$3, Daily 8:30–5 -
16. Fábrica de Tabacos Francisco Donatien
This traditional cigar factory, in a stately, colonnaded building that was the city jail until 1961, offers a more intimate visit than some of the major Havana cigar factories. You can watch a Montecristo in the making, as a guide explains the process. In a long, high-ceilinged hall, mostly young men—sporting trendy, shaved hair-dos—sit at old-fashioned, wooden tables, carefully destemming aged tobacco leaves, which look like thin strips of leather, then slowly rolling layers of different tobacco. The rolls are placed in plastic molds, pressed, then tested with an air compressor for the right consistency. You might hear the lector (reader) entertain the cigar rollers by reading newspaper articles from Granma or novels, but it's more likely you'll hear popular music from a radio. You purchase your ticket in the air-conditioned Casa del Habano across the street, where you can also buy cigars and souvenir humedors. No cameras are allowed in the cigar factory.
Calle Antonio Maceo 157, Pinar del Río, Pinar del Río, 20100, Cuba4877--3069Sight Details
Rate Includes: CUC$5, Weekdays 9--noon, 1--4 -
17. Finca Fiesta Campesina
At this casual farm-cum-zoo visitors can see two of Cuba's distinctive animals: the manjuarí, a primitive water creature with an alligator-like head and a fish body, and the jutía, a large-eared, muskrat-like tree rat, once prized for guajiro stews. Scattered around the farm yard there are deer, peacocks, rabbits, ducks, and guinea fowl. At the guarapa bar, you can buy a glass of fresh-pressed cane juice, with or without rum (CUC$2). The musical entertainment is provided by a caged Cuban Bullfinch, a small black bird, so prized for its song that Cubans organize bird-song competitions. There's no entrance fee to the farm but there are souvenir kiosks scattered around, and an open-air restaurant ($) mostly set up for tour-group buffets.
1 km south of village of Australia, Matanzas Province, 43000, Cuba4591--2045-for restaurantSight Details
Rate Includes: Daily 8–5 -
18. Hershey Railway
Once the property of the Hershey chocolate barons, Cuba's first electric railway was built in 1917 to haul sugarcane and workers to the sugar refinery. Now the quaint electric engine slowly pulls three passenger cars with wooden benches to a picturesque station in Matanzas, making many stops along the way. The ride usually takes about three to four hours to travel 95 km (60 miles). It's an interesting trip, but you can't be on a tight schedule, because the train isn't always on time and sometimes doesn't even get from Havana to Matanzas on the same day. The best train to take is the 12:21 pm train from the Casablanca station in Havana, or the 12:09 from Matanzas, but always check the most current schedule first. You buy the tickets on the train.
Calle 67/San Blas y Calle 155/San Alejandro, Matanzas, Matanzas Province, 40100, Cuba4524–7254Sight Details
Rate Includes: CUC$3, 3 departures daily; call for exact schedule -
19. Iglesia de San Pedro Apóstol
This architecturally eclectic church was built in 1870 by architect Daniel Delaglio, who also designed the city's emblematic Teatro Sauto. The church's Neoclassical symmetry is broken by a jumble of towers, turrets, domes, and cupolas. The bright yellow interior has rich, fluted columns behind the main altar.
Calle 57 y Calle 270, Matanzas, Matanzas Province, 40100, Cuba -
20. Jardín Botanico de las Hermanas Caridad y Carmen Miranda
This slightly oddball, 100-year-old garden surrounds a farmhouse on the northern edge of town. It was started by a man, whose daughters both lived here into their nineties and created an idiosyncratic world for themselves. Billows of bougainvillea blossoms, flowering shrubs, and fruit trees are populated by dolls and toys, mostly threadbare now and even a little macabre in places. It's not terribly tidy but it is interesting, with chickens clucking around and gardeners at work. After a stroll through the shady garden, you can sit on wicker chairs and sample some fruits. The house is full of antique furniture and photos, which a grand-neice of the sisters will happily show you.
Valle de Viñales, Pinar del Río, 22400, Cuba4879--6274Sight Details
Rate Includes: Donations accepted, Daily 8--7
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