Western Cuba Restaurants

Dining in the provincial capitals and towns is spotty; some places are acceptable while others seem fortunate to be able to provide nourishment at all. Pinar del Río for example, has no notable restaurants. Varadero has several good Italian, Chinese, criollo, and international options; buffets in hotels tend to be mediocre but the more luxurious resorts offer more sophisticated fare in their à la carte restaurants. You have to go off the beaten path to find such local specialties as crocodile tail (said to be an aphrodisiac) in the Zapata Peninsula, roast pork on the Isla de la Juventud, and lobster at María la Gorda.

Reservations aren't necessary, except in Varadero—especially at the upscale restaurants. Tipping is important to Cubans; an extra CUC here or there is much appreciated.

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  • 1. Eco-Restaurante El Romero

    $

    A rarity in carnivorous Cuba, this is a vegetarian restaurant with an innovative take on local organic and wild ingredients. You enter under a green arbor smothered by blue flowers and descend a few steps to an intimate, two-tier restaurant with a valley view. On the menu: tempura vegetables, creative salads, a bean pancake accompanied by a stuffed tomato, or the house specialty: "boliche," mashed yuca and sweet potato balls filled with vegetables in a cream sauce. There's also a vegetable paella. Portions come in three sizes for different-size appetites: small, medium, and large, and are priced accordingly, making it easy to sample and share.

    Main road, Artemisa, 33800, Cuba
    4857--8555
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