Western Cuba Restaurants

Dining in the provincial capitals and towns is spotty; some places are acceptable while others seem fortunate to be able to provide nourishment at all. Pinar del Río for example, has no notable restaurants. Varadero has several good Italian, Chinese, criollo, and international options; buffets in hotels tend to be mediocre but the more luxurious resorts offer more sophisticated fare in their à la carte restaurants. You have to go off the beaten path to find such local specialties as crocodile tail (said to be an aphrodisiac) in the Zapata Peninsula, roast pork on the Isla de la Juventud, and lobster at María la Gorda.

Reservations aren't necessary, except in Varadero—especially at the upscale restaurants. Tipping is important to Cubans; an extra CUC here or there is much appreciated.

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  • 1. Café Vigía

    $

    This lively café, with a large, covered terrace overlooking the plaza, is the perfect place to grab a table and a cool drink and enjoy the view of the Sauto Theater. Inside, the scene is vintage 19th century, with wood floors, Corinthian columns supporting the high ceiling, a long, polished-wood bar, and vintage photographs on the walls. Stained glass transoms top the arched windows, while a cool breeze wafts in from the bay, and there are ceiling fans to keep the air moving. Open daily from breakfast to late at night, the menu is inexpensive snack fare, including pizza, large beakers of beer to share and, of course, every coffee concoction. There's a modern art gallery next door, and a little farther along, an interesting book shop that sells artistic, handmade books using old photos, hand-written text, and drawings. The café is a good bathroom stop after visiting the nearby Provincial Museum.

    Calle Magdalena, esq. de Calle Medio, Matanzas, Matanzas Province, 40100, Cuba
    4525--3076
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