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Shortages of raw materials and a bureaucratized approach to food preparation in state-owned restaurants have produced many a mediocre meal, but with the privateer restaurants leading the way, Cuban cuisine is coming back. For the best cooking in Havana, seek out the paladares (privately owned establishments; the name, which lite
Shortages of raw materials and a bureaucratized approach to food preparation in state-owned restaurants have produced many a mediocre meal, but with the privateer restaurants leading the way, Cuban cuisine is coming back. For the best cooking in Havana, seek out the pal
Shortages of raw materials and a bureaucratized approach to food preparation in state-owned restaurants have produced ma
Shortages of raw materials and a bureaucratized approach to food preparation in state-owned restaurants have produced many a mediocre meal, but with the privateer restaurants leading the way, Cuban cuisine is coming back. For the best cooking in Havana, seek out the paladares (privately owned establishments; the name, which literally means "palates," was cribbed from a popular Brazilian soap opera in which the heroine makes her fortune with a roadside restaurant named "El Paladar de Raquel"). Call ahead to reserve a table if you go to a paladar, and never believe a taxi driver who swears to you that the place is closed; he gets a commission for taking you to the place he is flacking for.
In a small residential area on top of a hill in Guanabo, this charming paladar is the best in town. What's more is that it actually does feel like you're dining in someone's home, unlike some of Havana's more modern paladares. Here you'll dine on modern Cuban classics and an excellent array of fresh seafood dishes, in a pretty garden, filled with flowers, grape vines, and trickling fountains. Try the grilled fish with salsa verde. There are no vegetarian choices on the menu, but if you ask, they'll make you up a giant parilla de verduras (grilled platter of mixed vegetables), straight from the barbecue. If you like it, you can even opt to stay here, as they also have a couple of rooms for rent upstairs.
Calle Quebec 115, e/Calles 476 y 478, Havana, La Habana, 10900, Cuba
Although prices are on the high side, the romantic location makes them worth it. Standing at the foot of El Morro, this restaurant offers splendid views over Havana and is a good spot for dinner after the cañonazo at La Cabaña. Your best bet is lobster; kept alive in an on-site tank, it's guaranteed to be fresh.
This place is a little far out of town, but hitch a ride on one of Guanabo's quaint horse and carts, and for a couple of CUC's, you'll be there in no time. Set in a rustic dining room with a large outdoor patio and open kitchen, this lively paladar serves some of the best pizzas you will find in the whole of Cuba. Watch as your pizza is cooked in a traditional wood-fired oven in front of you.
Ave. 5 y Calle 502, Havana, La Habana, 10900, Cuba
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