Fodor's Expert Review Taikun

Taikun is an archaic Japanese term of esteem, loosely translated as "Supreme Commander." It's an appropriate designation for this sensuous sushi spot, clad in black with crimson and gray accents and dominated by a buzzy communal table. Start with one of the terrific cocktails or indulge in the superlative sake flights, which can be optimally paired with your sushi. Savor the salmon rice foie gras or melting Wagyu nigiri, then dive into such sublime signature maki as the Volcano (ahi poke, spicy salmon, tempura shrimp, cucumber, shiso, orange tobiko, wasabi mayo, and kabayaki sauce). The attention to detail is such that the waitstaff grates the fresh wasabi on sharkskin at the table; the resulting flavor is explosive in the best sense.