Fodor's Expert Review Ragazzi

The name means "good buddies," and this strip-mall jewel percolates with conversation and good strong espresso. The airy space is convivial—blond woods, periwinkle walls and columns, and handsome artworks of beach scenes, sailboats, and palm trees—and the antipasto alone is worth a visit, as are the homemade breadsticks and focaccia, carpaccio, and insalata Caprese. The shellfish linguine in a light, silken tomato sauce, with cherry-tomato skins pulled back and crisped, and gnocchi in four-cheese sauce with brandy and pistachios please pasta perfectionists. Thirty first-rate pizzas emerge from the wood-burning oven, and meat and seafood mains are beautifully done, never overcooked. The wine list is notable (400-odd choices) for a casual eatery, offering affordability even on heavy hitters such as Biondi Santi Brunello, Jermann Pinot Grigio, and Giacosa Barbaresco; the knowledgeable staff will gladly suggest pairings.