Fodor's Expert Review Pirates Point Restaurant

Susan Howard continues the tradition of her mother (the beloved, late, irrepressible Gladys Howard), offering Texas-style and Texas-size hospitality at her ravishing little resort. Guests have first privilege, but the kitchen can usually accommodate an extra couple or two; advance reservations are both a must and a courtesy on this island, where nearly everything is imported at great cost and effort. The resort gardens provide mangoes, Key limes, basil, lemongrass, and other herbs. Susan and her staff wear many hats on the island (indeed, at special occasions, they may be wearing a bear mask, bobby cap, or crab pincers). The lighthearted antics belie the serious food. Memorable three-course prix-fixe dinners (wine, but not tip, included), served on Wedgwood, could feature anything from filet mignon with a Cabernet reduction and garlic-whipped potatoes to ahi tuna pepper steak with saffron beurre blanc, scallion-infused udon noodles, and cucumber-seaweed salad. It all comes with heaping helpings of bon mots and bonhomie.