Fodor's Expert Review Luca

At this smart beachfront trattoria, everything has been handpicked: a wine wall of more than 3,000 international bottles; Murano glass fixtures; arty blown-up photographs; leather banquettes; and a curving onyx-top bar. Chef Roman Kleinrath presents a more conventional, classic menu than his predecessor but still delights in unorthodox pairings like Hudson Valley foie gras with pickled figs, raspberry balsamic puree, and Port reduction. Homemade pastas like pumpkin ravioli with sun-dried tomatoes in drawn thyme butter also shine, but the standout is a whole Mediterranean striped bass baked in a salt crust floating atop Chardonnay caper sauce.