Upper South Island and the West Coast Restaurants

In Marlborough visit a winery restaurant—there's no better way to ensure that your meal suits what you're drinking. Cloudy Bay clams are harvested here, salmon and Greenshell mussels are farmed in the Marlborough Sounds, and local crops—besides grapes—include cherries and garlic. In Kaikoura try crayfish. The region is named after this delicacy (In M?ori, kai means "food" and koura means "lobster"). Nelson is also famous for seafood, in particular scallops, and for fresh produce and, yes, for wine. On the West Coast, try the local delicacy whitebait fritters—a sort of omelet filled with the whitebait—tiny, young eel-like fish netted at river mouths as they migrate upstream in late spring.

Some restaurants in more remote tourist regions close in winter (June through August); others may curtail their hours. In summer, all doors are open and it's best to make reservations. If a restaurant is open on a major holiday, it may add a surcharge to your bill.

Year-round, the restaurants and cafés around the glaciers and other remote spots can be quick to close their doors at night. Arrive by 8:30 (it's sometimes even earlier in winter) or you might go hungry. Some of the smallest towns, including Punakaiki, settlements in the Marlborough Sounds, and parts of Golden Bay, have few cafés and no general stores, so bring your own supplies.

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  • 1. Hislops Wholefoods Café

    $$$

    This wholesome foodie café is a local institution, a few minutes' walk north of town and worth the trip. In the morning you'll find tasty free-range eggs and bacon, plus freshly baked, genuinely stone-ground whole-grain bread served with marmalade or their own honey. The lunch and dinner menus use organic ingredients wherever possible, and there are wheat- and gluten-free options as well. On sunny days, snag a table on the veranda.

    33a Beach Rd., Kaikoura, Canterbury, 7300, New Zealand
    03-319–6971

    Known For

    • House-made bircher and organic muesli bowls for breakfast
    • Open fish sandwiches
    • Mountain and ocean views

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon. and Tues. No dinner
  • 2. Monteiths Brewing Company

    $$$

    They started brewing beer on the West Coast right here in 1868, and now the modern version of the brewery offers a full restaurant, a brewing museum, brewery tours and, of course, lots of fresh brews. The restaurant serves standard Kiwi fare, along with tapas and platters to match the beers. The brewery tours (NZ$35 includes tastings) will be in the hands of an expert brewer. You can also get your own, personally labeled bottle (NZ$10).

    60 Herbert St., Greymouth, West Coast, 7805, New Zealand
    03-768–4149

    Known For

    • Historic brewery tours
    • Antipasto platters
    • Great local brews
  • 3. Mussel Inn

    $$$

    Swing by the Mussel Inn for a quintessential slice of Golden Bay life: music, craft beer, and darn good pub food. Locals come for the live music (most evenings in summer), mussel chowder, steamed mussels, or goat curry, washed down with house-brewed beer and ciders. A favorite is the Captain Cooker—brewed first from native manuka leaves by Captain Cook to combat scurvy on his ships.  With rough sawn timber, handmade furniture, outdoor fire pit, and a big rambling garden, it’s very much a "Kiwi woolshed meets Aussie farmhouse" feel here. 

    1259 Tākaka-Collingwood Hwy., Onekaka, Tasman, 7182, New Zealand
    03-525–9241

    Known For

    • Craft beers and ciders
    • Rustic, country ambience
    • Live music

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Aug., Reservations not accepted
  • 4. The Alice May

    $$$

    One of those cozy, buzzing places so prevalent on the West Coast, The Alice May serves country fare that is good and plentiful, with a welcome range of light meals (fish-and-chips, curries, venison burgers) and more substantial main courses (slow roasted pork belly, beef cheeks, and good vegetarian options). The wine and beer lists are stacked with mainstream NZ favorites. The Alice can get very busy over summer. Courtesy car available on request.

    30 Cron St., Franz Josef, West Coast, 7886, New Zealand
    03-752–0740

    Known For

    • Full of character and ambience
    • Great service even when packed
    • Interesting à la carte menu
  • 5. Theatre Royal Hotel Kumara

    $$$

    The owners spent years restoring this old pub, and now the place hums with activity and tasty food. Locally cured bacon, venison patties, wild (bush) pork sliders, house-made pies, and salads all vie for attention on the breakfast/brunch/lunch menus. Bar snacks and baked goods are offered all-day, and dinner steps up with a stylish à la carte menu. Riders from the local cycle trail will be staying here; there's also a great local scene with live music and community events.

    81 Seddon St., Kumara, Hokitika, West Coast, 7832, New Zealand
    03-736–9277

    Known For

    • The community's local pub
    • History (ambience) meets modernity (food)
    • Classic miner's breakfast
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  • 6. Cafe Cortado

    $$$

    South American and Mediterranean influences are paired with top Marlborough wines and craft range beers at this prime waterfront spot with a laid-back atmosphere. The fresh breakfasts will sufficiently fuel you up for a day out on the Sounds. Cortado, a family-run restaurant, prides itself on its sustainable practices.

    Corner of High St. and London Quay, Picton, Marlborough, 7220, New Zealand
    03-573–5630

    Known For

    • Good selection of tapas
    • Pizzas and breakfast burritos
    • Sustainable sourcing
  • 7. Café Neve

    $$$

    This standout along Fox Glacier's main street sparks up no-nonsense options with fresh local flavors, such as the Neve pizza topped with mozzarella, ham, bacon, pepperoni, tomatoes, and pineapple. From breakfast and on to lunch and dinner, the menu is big and varied, taking you through eggs Benedict, BLT sandwiches, soups and chowders, burgers, chicken, pizzas, and rib-eye steak—just what you need after a day exploring or driving. Everything is prepared on-site (muffins recommended). The wine list has only New Zealand vintages, and the beers are boutique. 

    37 Main Rd., Fox Glacier, West Coast, 7886, New Zealand
    03-751–0110

    Known For

    • New Zealand--focused wine list
    • Veranda dining to watch the tourists
    • Varied menu of NZ classics

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Reservations not accepted
  • 8. Denniston Dog

    $$$

    This old bank building is loaded with local character in its current guise as a cheerful pub and gathering spot. If the coal-mining heritage of this town interests you, you will enjoy the memorabilia and photos on display. They serve good Kiwi food here, anything from breakfast and brunch to light meals to kids' meals to stone-grill steaks and seafood. The meals are hearty, and it's a very kid-friendly spot. There's a big covered courtyard for summer dining.

    18 Wakefield St., Westport, West Coast, 7825, New Zealand
    03-789–5030

    Known For

    • Traditional New Zealand food
    • Big breakfasts
    • Stone-grilled meats and seafood
  • 9. Jester House Cafe

    $$$

    The locally sourced, mainly organic food at this funky place includes a raft of home baking, chutneys and dressings, and hearty country fare like chowders and salads. There's cozy indoor seating, and tables dotted throughout the garden and veranda. For the kids there's a small playground, an enchanted forest, and some extremely tame eels that can be hand-fed (September–May). This eclectic establishment makes no apologies for being open only on Fridays 10 am–10 pm. Down in the back garden, the Boot B&B has comfy accommodations for couples.

    320 Aporo Rd., Tasman, 7173, New Zealand
    03-526–6742

    Known For

    • Family-friendly atmosphere
    • Tame eels (to feed, not eat)
    • Twice-baked three-cheese soufflé

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sat.--Thurs.
  • 10. Le Café

    $$$

    Sitting outside Le Café on the waterfront you can look right down Queen Charlotte Sound and watch the local boats and the big Cook Strait ferries coming and going. Staffers source organic, local, and free-range foods wherever possible—your fish was probably landed on the wharf at the end of the street and, if it's beef, they reckon they know the farmer. Casual meals, coffee, and baking are available all day before dinner kicks in; that's when the tempo at the bar picks up and live acts perform regularly.

    London Quay, Picton, Marlborough, 7220, New Zealand
    03-573–5588

    Known For

    • Great coffee
    • Edgy vibe
    • Continental European classics at dinner
  • 11. Morrisons

    $$$

    Regional, artisanal produce is showcased at this upbeat, all-day café that’s been around for more than 20 years. Wholesome breakfasts, lots of in-house baking, and a tasty lunch menu are the stars here. Try the Nashville Hot Chicken. You can dine in the spacious indoor areas or on the terrace, and enjoy the changing exhibitions of emerging local artists.

    244 Hardy St., Nelson, Nelson, 7010, New Zealand
    03-548–8110

    Known For

    • Moroccan eggs for breakfast
    • Atomic coffee matched with locally produced Oakland milk
    • Tasty, innovative children's menu

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner
  • 12. Pancake Rocks Cafe

    $$$

    A little café open daily, Pancake Rocks serves a full breakfast, lunch, and (in summer) dinner menu. This place is famous for it all-day pancake stacks and gourmet stone-oven pizzas, the cabinet food is delicious too. There's also a small gallery/gift shop here, selling quality New Zealand souvenirs, including jewelry. The staff copes well given the hordes that can arrive here.

    Coast Rd., Punakaiki, West Coast, 4300, New Zealand
    03-731–1122

    Known For

    • Pancake stack with maple syrup and bacon
    • Quirky decor
    • Stone-oven pizzas
  • 13. PortSide Bistro & Bar

    $$$

    There’s a huge range of fare on the menu here, be it for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. Breakfasts are served until 3 pm, and coffee and cake are always ready on the go. Light lunch choices include salads, burgers, and lots of seafood, and the dinner menu showcases salmon, venison, and rib-eye beef. They're especially proud of their signature fish-and-chips on Friday. You’ll be dining with the locals here.

    13 Cobden St., Westport, West Coast, 7825, New Zealand
    03-789–7133

    Known For

    • Fresh market fish, delivered directly from the boats
    • Bistro burgers
    • Local atmosphere

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon., Reservations essential
  • 14. Raupo Cafe & Restaurant

    $$$

    Be it coffee and French pastries for breakfast, mussels and clams with a glass of wine for lunch, or a full à la carte dinner, the European chef and owners at Raupo will indulge you. Meals are light, healthy, organic, and locally sourced when possible. The restaurant is of a striking glass, wood, and stone design, and it sits on a small bend in the Taylor River. You can sit on the terrace in summer or cozy up to the fireplace in winter. The mezzanine floor offers a more private dining experience.

    6 Symons St., Blenheim, Marlborough, 7201, New Zealand
    03-577–8822

    Known For

    • Riverside dining
    • Patisserie on site
    • French influence on top local produce
  • 15. Rivers Café

    $$$

    Good food and good coffee is served every day in a welcoming, rustic setting. It's hard to find, tucked around a corner, so it's mostly frequented by locals and those in the know. There's plenty of room and free Wi-Fi,  with hours extending a touch in summer.

    51 Fairfax St., Murchison, Tasman, 7007, New Zealand
    03-523–9009

    Known For

    • Family-friendly atmosphere
    • Big helpings
    • Lamb shank
  • 16. Scotch Wine Bar

    $$$

    This contemporary-style wine bar and restaurant (with a wine shop next door) offers evening dining with tapas plates and some larger main courses. The menu changes weekly to encompass the freshest and most seasonal produce. The wine list is one of the largest you'll find in any Marlborough eatery, while cocktails and craft beers are also in good supply. On summer nights the tables spill onto the public square outside—grab a beanbag for comfort.

    24-26 Maxwell Rd., Blenheim, Marlborough, 7240, New Zealand
    03-579–1176

    Known For

    • Cool black booths and brick decor
    • Shared plates
    • 500-plus wines offered from temperature-controlled cellar

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sat. and Sun. No lunch
  • 17. Seumus' Irish Bar

    $$$

    This place definitely has the classic Irish bar vibe. Irish locals confirm they pour a good Guinness, plus there's lots of live music; it's not all Celtic, but it will get your toes tapping regardless. You'll find the bright red pub a short walk from the waterfront and it's open until the wee small hours so it's a great spot to wait for the late-night ferry.

    25 Wellington St., Picton, Marlborough, 7220, New Zealand
    03-573–5050

    Known For

    • Classic Irish pub menu
    • Beef burgers and fries
    • Sunday roasts

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon. and Tues.
  • 18. Speight's Ale House

    $$$

    The bistro-style menu here includes the signature whitebait (seasonal September through to November) and blue cod, along with the usual steaks, lamb, salmon, and mussels. In addition, the ales of the famous southern brand, Speight's, flow in the stylishly restored interior with shiny, bold copper vents contrasting against the wood and brick decor. There are also bar snacks and a kids' menu. The restored brick building, opposite the town's railway station, is one of Greymouth's originals.

    130 Mawhera Quay, Greymouth, West Coast, 7805, New Zealand
    03-768–0667

    Known For

    • Only local restaurant with a dedicated outdoor dining area
    • Pot pies
    • Historic building convenient to the railway station
  • 19. Stationhouse Café

    $$$

    The café is in an old railway house with a superb view across Lake Brunner and the forests and wetlands beyond. Lunch options include chowders, salads, homemade pies with mashed potatoes and peas, blue cod, and chips. For dinner try salmon, lamb, or rib-eye steak. Lake Brunner is an easy day drive from Greymouth, or you can stop off the TranzAlpine train for lunch while it travels out to the coast and back.

    40 Koe St., Moana, West Coast, 7845, New Zealand
    03-738–0158

    Known For

    • Handy stop for train travelers
    • Whitebait fritters (in season)
    • Family-friendly atmosphere

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Sometimes closed for dinner in winter, Reservations essential
  • 20. The Apple Shed Kitchen and Bar

    $$$

    The Māpua Wharf setting complements the food, and you can watch the boats go by while dining on quality produce (organic when possible) washed down with Nelson wines, ciders, and craft beers. All bread is baked in-house, the coffee is great, and the menu serves a mix of small and large plates. You can dine inside or outside. Once an apple packing shed, this restaurant utilizes its waterfront location perfectly. 

    Shed 3, Mapua, Tasman, 7005, New Zealand
    03-540--3381

    Known For

    • Dining overlooking the water
    • Golden Beer craft beer from the brewery next door
    • Local fish and shellfish dishes

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