Detour: En Route

If you're driving to the West Coast from Nelson or Motueka, State Highway 6 passes through Murchison before turning right at O'Sullivans Bridge 12 km (7 miles) farther south and heads down through the Buller Gorge toward the West Coast. This twisting, narrow road follows alongside the pristine Buller River as it carves a deep gorge below the jagged, earthquake-rocked mountain peaks. Not far from here are New Zealand's longest swaying footbridge, the Buller Gorge Swing Bridge, and the departure point for the Buller Canyon Jet, should you want to ride a few rapids. The upper gorge is tight and hilly but once past Inangahua the lower gorge is easier to negotiate. The Buller once carried a fabulous cargo of gold, but you'll have to use your imagination to reconstruct the days when places such as Lyell, 34 km (21 miles) west of Murchison, were bustling mining towns. There’s now only a peaceful, Department of Conservation campsite at Lyell, and some good bushwalking. You'll pass high forest-clad mountains, narrow single-lane bridges, and the village of Inangahua along the way, sleepy now but not on the day a major earthquake centered here in 1968. Hawk's Crag and Fern Arch, where the highway passes beneath one-way rock overhangs with the river wheeling alongside, is another highlight, while a low-key café at Berlins offers a pit stop. At the end of the gorge, a left turn heads south along State Highway 6 toward Punakaiki. Continuing straight ahead leads to Westport and Karamea. Hopefully you will have allowed time to visit these northern West Coast regions before heading south. Although on a map the distances along the West Coast appear small, allow plenty of time to negotiate the hills and to explore the sights. When traveling in early to mid-summer, watch for the giant, spectacular crimson-flowering rata trees lighting the forest with their blooms. Watch also for campervans; they generally travel much slower.

Buller Gorge Swingbridge and Buller Canyon Jet Boat Ride. This adventure and heritage park is a delightful find, just when you think you’re driving through the middle of nowhere. Be as active as you wish: jet-boat through the mighty Buller Gorge, swing over it on a zipline, cross it on New Zealand’s longest swing bridge, explore a walking trail through dense native forest, try your luck panning for gold, or simply read about the massive earthquake that shook the land around here in 1968. Open daily 8–7 (summer), 9–5:30 (winter). Jet boats depart hourly through summer, 10 to 4 and by arrangement in winter. Upper Buller Gorge, State Hwy. 6, Murchison, Tasman, 7007. 03/523–9809; 03/523–9883; 0800/285–537; www.bullergorge.co.nz. Jet boat NZ$105; zipline NZ$30; swing bridge NZ$10.