Fodor's Expert Review Huen Jai Yong

Ask a Thai chef where to find Chiang Mai's finest and most authentic Lanna food, and you'll likely be directed to this rustic restaurant a 30-minute drive south of the Old City. The place occupies an old timber house and several air-conditioned rooms in a contemporary building that wraps around the back garden. Start with the nam prik num (roasted green-chili relish) and kap moo (pork crackling), and don't miss the rich, aromatic gaeng hang lay. Few staff members speak English, and you’re unlikely to see groups of foreigners, but there is an English menu (you might have to ask for it). Prices are exceedingly reasonable for the quality. The only issue is transportation. If you're carless, the best strategy is to take a taxi or tuk-tuk and pay the driver to wait. They're only open for lunch.