Fodor's Expert Review Samlor

In this century-old corner building in Bang Rak, a small team of Thai chefs turn out gub glam, simple dishes that are traditionally meant to accompany an evening of drinking but the food more than stands up on its own. Signature dishes include fried chicken wings in a fish-sauce glaze and beef brisket braised in a soy ginger sauce and served with garlic rice and greens. On the same premises, a Japanese partner makes world-class homemade ice cream with Thai ingredients.