A grand palace in the center of the city. High school students dressed in bright hanbok walking past businesspeople in stiff suits. Streets of tall, modern office buildings hiding tiled-roof houses dating from the Joseon Dynasty. The sight-rich Jongno-gu district reminds you of its centuries-long history at every turn, especially apparent as it joins the city's contemporary architecture and museums. Ask any Seoulite: If you had to limit yourself to one area, this part of the city would be the one to see.
The historic Jongno-gu district is made of several powerhouse neighborhoods, including Gwanghwamun, Insa-dong, and the Bukchon Hanok Village. The Gwanghwamun area is home to Seoul's five grand palaces and is literally the main gate of Gyeongbokgung Palace, a relic originally built in 1395. Gwanghwamun Square, the plaza facing the gate, has been the site of landmark protests, namely, the Candlelight Demonstrations of 2016 that led to the impeachment of former President Park Geun-hye.
Filled with embassies, traditional architecture, and grand museums, there is a refined air to Gwanghwamun. Walk into a nicer restaurant at lunch, and it’s not uncommon to see diplomats dining with a foreign ambassador or a group of elegantly dressed ladies catching up over a cup of tea. While it can feel intimidating at times, you’ll find the neighborhood is much more accessible than you imagined. Many traditional sights are free or cost little to visit and there are pockets of interesting, down-to-earth places to see.
When planning out your trip, be careful not to overload your days by only hopping from one attraction to the next. If your time is limited, see Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung Palaces as they’re the largest and most beautiful, respectively. Take your pick of museums: visit the Seoul Museum of History if you’re a devotee of all things past, and the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art if you’re an aesthete.
Block out good chunks of your day for neighborhood exploration. Learn about traditional Korean architecture at the Bukchon Hanok Village but don’t limit yourself to the sights of Bukchon hanoks exclusively. Head over to Ikseon-dong, a maze of hanoks that date back to the 1920s, for a lively atmosphere of trendy pubs and restaurants. For great meals and an elegant glass of wine, wander around Seochon, a village west of the gate. And to feel like you have a slice of downtown Seoul all to yourself, walk along Wonseo-dong, a long, winding street with boutique shops and quiet cafes. Finally, leave time to explore Hyehwa-dong, Seoul's theater district.
