Nampo-dong

Nestled against the deep jade waters of the old harbor, this is where Busan really comes alive. Once the city center, Nampo is an intoxicating blend of old and new, a maze of alleys and sidestreets home to fishmongers, luxury boutiques, street vendors, food stalls, phone shops, underground malls, hillside settlements, historic restaurants, hole-in-the-wall bars, and funky cafes.

Nampo-dong is where you'll find several of Busan's most important markets, including Jagalchi, the oldest seafood exchange in Korea. In addition, its main shopping strip is the city's most established-destination for big brand stores, such as Nike and Adidas. The Busan International Film Festival also got its start here, and the area is a haven for street food, most famously hotteok, a hotcake with a gooey, melted brown sugar center that's well worth lining up for. 

The alleys of Nampo-dong are magical, possessed with an energy that's hard to wrap your head around until you've actually tasted the air, taken in the sounds, and soaked up its splendid verve firsthand. Once you have, you'll never forget it, and may find yourself wishing to return again and again.