Getting Oriented in Western Honshu

Western Honshu is bisected by a chain of picturesque, rugged mountains called the Chugoku San-chi. These mountains run east–west, making north–south travel a difficult proposition. Keep in mind that travel along the north coast, or San-in, is incredibly slow—local trains still plod from village to village—so if you are pressed for time to get to Hagi or Tsuwano, use Yamaguchi as your base; for Matsue, Kurashiki and Okayama work best.

• San-yo. San-yo comprises the sunny southern coastline of western Honshu; the region's major cities are Okayama and Hiroshima. Though the entire stretch is heavily populated and industrialized, bright spots worth a look are Kurashiki, Okayama, and Miyajima, near Hiroshima.
• San-in. Remote as it is, a trip through the surreal landscape of San-in may come closest to providing the best of what Japan has to offer. Romantic destinations worth some extra travel time include the hidden hamlets of Hagi and Tsuwano, and the enchanting lakeside city of Matsue.