Fodor's Expert Review Tableaux

This restaurant may lay on more glitz than necessary—the mural in the bar depicts the fall of Pompeii, the banquettes are upholstered in red leather, and the walls are papered in antique gold—but the service is cordial and professional and the food, which is centered on Italian cuisine and U.S. steaks, is superb. The wine list is one of the most varied in town, with more than 200 bottles covering everything from affordable house wines to rarities that will set you back upward of ¥200,000 a bottle.