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Eating in Shikoku can be a surprisingly cosmopolitan experience. Matsuyama offers the widest variety of cuisines, everything from French to Indian. Takamatsu is another foodie haven, with many bistros, cafés, and izakaya pubs in and around the shopping arcades. Kochi and Tokushima have fewer foreign restaurants, but small Japanese eateries here serve local specialties. In the main cities some restaurants stay open late, but in smaller towns most places close by 8 pm.
This delightful café-restaurant sits just off the main drag between Harimaya-bashi and the castle. Choose a table by the window and people-watch on the cobbled lane, or head indoors to the quirky third-floor dining area. The cake, incidentally, is excellent.
Located in the Benesse House Museum, Restaurant Issen serves traditional kaiseki food in beautifully curated surroundings and with impeccable service. A highly aesthetic experience, and one of the most elegant dining options on the island. Note that children below the age of six are not allowed, and reservations are required for dinner, with different menus for same-day reservations and reservations made two or more days in advance. At lunch, try the relatively inexpensive kaiseki sampler sets.
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